XRAY - Model racing cars

yeah,i know
but sometimes motor can take moe power then it is said

Orion 5500 90C
that equates to 495A : ie this rating is nonsense.
I call marketing BS on these

Your RC car needs doesnt need that sort of amperage
you would need to change ALL the connectors to something rated for 500A, perhaps large copper nails ??
SOME lipo brands(hyperion) even state that these amperage's CANNOT be safely used , even for testing ,without 1st opening the lipo & changing all the batts connectors

Quoting hyperion,
"Note that NO CONNECTOR SYSTEM in use for RC Cars matches these rates, nor do RC cars draw such high continuous currents. Therefore if you intend to do CELL testing at max C rates continuously, hard case must be disassembled and appropriate cell connections made, by expert users only. RC CAR Standard connectors have ratings of 20A to about 80A continuous max depending on type, so never exceed connector ratings on continuous basis."

hahaha

you guys make me laugh

ok there is no proof , but i know and have seen my laptimes drop because of a battery , yeah companys can stick a sticker on there that says anything but if you spend your life doubting companys you will never get anywhere in life

all i say is try one if your not quicker then i will buy the thing from you second hand !!!!!

im not sure,but they have something like::
lipo 7.4 (some capicity) 45C-90C yes?

I think there's no reason to spend 120€ or more on a LiPo battery when you "just" have runs of 5 minutes, even not when running modified motors. You really can find good LiPos (it's just important who is making the cells like Kokam or Enerland and there're maybe 2 or 3 companies doing the best job, nothing else) starting at a price tag of 50-60€.

the more amps in the battery the longer the volage stays high = power for longer

The higher the C rating the more amps can come out of the battery when i squeeze the trigger(to a point) = quicker lap times

in the end you get quicker lap times for longer , i only use 2300a from my 5500 90c lipo in a 7 min race BUT my voltage is still not silly low , this means i am more consistant with my laptimes

Cheaper batterys ,i cannot comment as i dont buy cheap lipos , A i dont trust them , B I think they dont last , BUT guys at the track run them and they are ok with them.

This is my thing and if i want to buy a lipo for 120 euros , i will . if i am a fool then next race you see me at come and tell me

there is a lot of us fools out there , those who buy LRP lipos for 160 euros

what do you think about SMC 7.4V 5200 lipo?

I just know that Marc Rheinard once used SMC LiPo batteries. BTW, Orion answered on my questions and wrote that the 90C are just for a short period. That doesn't matter ... just out of interest and to finish the theme.
Today I charged my LiPo batteries with 0.000V difference and during charging (balancer just jumps in in the end) I had a difference of 0.002 to 0.000V.

[quote="sidecarphil"]..snip Cheaper batterys ,i cannot comment as i dont buy cheap lipos , A i dont trust them , B I think they dont last , BUT guys at the track run them and they are ok with them.
quote]

The discussion is not about "cheaper" batteries. It is about not needing to buy overspecced high quality batteries. IE overspecced for TC stock motor needs

Hello,

close to my problems (see tread MT-4) I sugggest to have troubles with my LIPOS.
I will test this issue today and will know you whats happen, because since I switched from 10,5T boosted to 5.5T boosted; I guess that some LIPOS (all from 2010) are gone.- but lets see what will be today....

My lipo list and test results from last year 2010

I bought:

CS-electronics LIPO 5200mAH -50C ~ 75€
Turnigy 5000mAh 40-50C --38€ (with taxes )
NOSRAM 5900mAH 50C --- 109€

This year I bought a
Intellect 6200mAh 60C --- ~60€

The turnigy pack was last year the only one what gives my the fastest speed on the straight while first round.
(some guy laugh about the sticker on it, why the company wrote 40-50C) -but belive me I felt NO difference between The NOSRAM and the Turnigy.

Due to the fact that I run 1/12 scale pan car ALL the 2s LIPO´s were a little bit sleeping at the begin of this year aspecially the NOSRAM give me the feeling that I have to drop it away.-no power no run time.
but during the training this year all LIPOS are in good condtions and work very good.

Btw.

can someone tell me how many Amperes will be pulled out of LIPO with 5.5T SPv3 motor with small boost.

regrads
Harald

50C is enough for sp 5.5with 5200 mah

As has been mentioned by a few people, the ideal is a battery is one that will finish a run and still have 8.4V in it and have an internal resistance of 0ohms, but sadly the laws of physics don't allow this (bummer )

So we are left trying to find the pack that maintains the highest voltage under load and has the lowest internal resistance (to increase current flow and increase efficiancy).
Sadly I don't have a very expensive charger that can measure these things.

All I know for sure is that I have 2year old Thunder Power 40C's that are still competitive, I replaced them with some new 65C TP's this year as the cases were so badly damaged on the 40C's.

There is also the part that everyone never thinks about; if your pack has 4mm connectors built into the case that means it has to have a small circuit board at that end of the pack which the connectors and wires are soldered to, this means more solder joints which increases the resistance!
So make sure it has Deans or similar on it or you're already wasting energy.

Skiddins

@ Marek
of course 50C for me it is enough- runing a full open boost software @ HW 2.1 ESC and 87/26 gearing on my T3/2010
the 50C from the pack (NOSRAM:Turnigy, and CS) are so good as the IP 60C-
The IP 60C isn´t more powerfull from the low end power,but my brother and I have the same pack, and both of us think, that in the mid speed there is a "little force inside", like a very small boost.
At our local track A lot a different teamdrivers and others are driving different brand´s. (CS;LRP;Nosram,Vampire, Reedy,SMC, Thunder power, Intellect, Robitronic (AUSTRIA - but Hongkong I guess ),Turnigy) and I heard no bad word about some brand explicitly.

The next topic is, that I heard from 17.5T stock driver (NO boost) that they sometimes discharge under hard rate (10A-20A) the LIPOS because they lose some power from the soft motors. and also they charge them, depending of the outdoor temp., with 10A, to have max power.
My comment: since last year I drove 13.5T with boost and switch to 10.5T with boost and the Lipos getting better,powerful and with a harder/faster cutoff.

The only thing, what is dangerous for the Lipos is 54 Deg. C after run.... some of them make a hump inside.......this is what happen with my CS 5200/50C after SP 5.5T with small boost!!! and 33 deg.C air temp. in Vienna last week- - but it works well today in my 10.5T boosted car.

regards
Harald