XRAY - Model racing cars

I drived today!no oil leak!Fantastic!Thks XRAY!
Pier

I too faced the same issue with the rear being very hard to turn. when i can turn it the whole spur and layshaft turns together.

Is it we have to take out the plastic blade when using a 52mm? im running only negative 2 camber.

Regards
Calvin

So Alexander,If we use 52mm,which is the best camber to use?
Thks
Pier

I had my first 150 laps with the geardiff, feels excellent with no leaks. Running 700 oil on low-medium traction and I felt I had a lot more turn in than with the balldiff, but didn't notice more on-power steering. Anyway I see this as a huge success, same or a bit better performance and almost no maintenance.

Oh, and no problem with 52mm shafts.

How much camber we can only use Alex?

Must we use with the plastic blade or without?

Thanks

Regards
Calvin

I drived today with my first geardiff ( 15 turns ),NO IOL LEAK!
FANTASTIC!!!!!

PS for Alexander Hagberg:How much camber we can only use with 52 mm?
Thks
Pier

I know some people think that being 10g lighter than the spec R is of no consequence due to the overall weight being still within the weight limit, but this is a ROTATING MASS.

In having a lower rotating mass the 'FLYWHEEL EFFECT' is reduced. LEt's remember that RC cars have motors that have a very high RPM.

As a result of this, a 1/3 reduction in weight of a diff should, theoretically, lead to faster spool up and stopping times. Not only that the power draw should be a bit less as well. If combined with lightweight spur gears, lightweight titanium pinions, and ceramic bearings and diff balls the reduction in the rotating mass becomes more noticeable.

I only ever recalled the effect with a brushed 19 turn motor on a car I had ceramic bearings and a lightweight pinion. Must say - it was totally wasted on me

If you are good enough, the lightweight will doubtless be a factor in performance consideration.

Hello Marek

Im running -2 degree at the rear with 52mm on the gear diff, when i lift the rear arms it got stuck and its not free to move. have even remove the anti-roll bar, but its still not moving. I do not have this problem when using a 50mm. What could be wrong? L1 and L2 i am putting on the inner top hole.

Thanks

Regards
Calvin

so try to sand a little the c plastics adapters

Hi Guys,

so it looks like I need to sand the blades (Guys, don't ever run with out the blades!)

I to have fitted a gear diff and can't run my 52mm drive shafts in my T311. The quick fix was to change to 50mm shafts. Others I know have not had a problem (but I have not had a chance to look at their cars.

Install problems aside the Diff is great! I ran a SpecR and ditched it after 1 run (it sprayed oil all over my car). The XRAY diff is simple to build, does not leak and works really well.

thanks guys.

I always use between -1.5 and -2.0 degrees of rear camber. Also with the new diff fitted and 52mm shafts in the rear.

Thks Alex!!!
See you in Germany at first ETS round
Pier

Hello guys

I have figured out how to solve the problem, you don't even need to trim the blade.

I now use the Spring Steel UJ 52mm the brown one (took it from the original kit since i change ECS front). instead of the black aluminum 52mm.

Works like a charm and its even stronger than the aluminum

That does the trick for me. I really love driving with the 52mm compare to 50mm which feels weird for me

Regards
Calvin

So 52mm is sometimes not 52mm just 51 ? hmm...

If I am understanding this right, the gear diff will behave much like a ball diff. The difference is there is no chance of slipping with a gear and you have to change the fluid to tune it. The benefit of the ball diff is it is easier to adjust.

So...on a budget, I can use the ball diff that came with the kit an get close to the same results...right? Then I can get the gear diff and put that in the back and move the ball diff to the front. I like a diff in the front to as it fit my driving style bit better.