XRAY - Model racing cars

To get even steering throw and speed you will want the servo saver to be perpendicular to the steering linkage, which may not be vertical. In most cases this will mean the servo saver should be angled in towards the centre of the car slightly. My steering balance on my radio is identical left to right and I have achieved full lock by turning my endpoints up to 150 (Sanwa).

I am also using a tamiya servo saver which mounts the link slightly higher than the XRAY one. This helps with achieving full lock. I have had to shave a small ammount of material off the inner ball end so it doesnt touch the topdeck when turning left.

Hello, I used standard servo saver with an angular aperture at an angle 90 "At me it works perfectly with EPA 120 % http://www.rcracing.com.ua/trid/electro ... 866.jpg#lp Last two pictures

I'd like to turn my servo just so I'll have more room for the electrics. Are you just sticking the servo down or using a post ?

I bet Xray's next chassis will have the servo turned

Shoe Goo, Servo Tape, some people have drilled an extra hole for a post

Hi,

I've turned my servo and done the linkage like V2Xray's but I've angled my servo horn to give 90deg linkage. I've drilled a new hole in the chassis, added a 1mm shim between the servo post and chassis with servo tape, 1mm shim on the steering linkage with a longer ball stud as it was catching at full lock and some shims on the servo arm with a long ball stud. Not driven the car yet will try it Friday, hope it holds up ok if you knock a wheel or something with just one post and servo tape ? and yes I know the screws are missing from the top deck, linkage just clears it

http://www.flickr.com/photos/63056180@N07/5736139327/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63056180@N07/5736700626/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63056180@N07/5736153015/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63056180@N07/5736705112/

Hello,

I try to get my servo into the turned position but it's not easy to gett full lock, can anybody help?

I use Sanwa electronics (servo srg low profile brushless).
Just like Alex i use a camber link turnbuckle instead off the original steering link, just because the original link is to short i think. With the original steering-link the threat is just very little into the ball joint, with the camber link turnbuckle it's just more in, and more stable. What lenght (total) of the turnbuckle do you use including the ball joints?
(Mounting the front position or mounting the middle (drilled hole) position.

From the pictures i see that the servo is almost near the ball bearings and the servosaver is in line with the ballbearings, the left side of the servo is equal to the outside off the chassisplate, this is the best position?

You have to use the plastic steering system to remove the left side of the right steering crank, or is it also possible to use the aluminium (i don't think so) ?

I' am now using the front position (like the picture of alex), does it help to drill a hole into the middle like others to get full lock?

Sorry, a lot of questions, i hope you can help

Kind Regards Eric

I had this battle yesterday

First I had my servo in line with the chassis edge and I could not get full lock because the servo horn was getting to horizontal when I turned left, so I moved the servo 1mm in and now the link was hitting the L of the steering crank, so I had to cut the old part off. Now it's pretty close, about 1mm off the blocks, but I can't get it any further because the arm will hit the rack. I'm at almost full dual rate (m11x) but I still have plenty of room left in the EPAs

I managed to get mine mounted like Alex's but with full throw i'm getting about 1-1.5mm gap between the hub and arm, would I notice this ?

Another thing I did it without grounding down a nut, I used a M3x16 button head mounted from the bottom upwards through the orange steering piece then on top of that I had a 1mm shim then a pivot ball (307455) secured with a nut above.

The only way I will get full throw is use a longer servo saver.

Tried that but anything over about 120 and the servo dosen't move anymore ?

Ater trying it at my local track Monday I was no faster and I think the car felt more twitchy to start with so I added more expo. I'm going to convert it back.

Let's hope the T3'12 will come out with such servo position. I did this conversion on a T2008 with a complete TCX steering system.
I can't say this brings more/less steering or makes my laptimes faster, but one thing's sure, the steering feel is way better this way.
Probably said already, adding almost 15mm clearance between the speedo and the motor will also improve the motor natural cooling.
I could even placed a double taped 40x40x10 fan before the motor (instead of my big finger lol).

Come on Juraj !

Hello from France,

here's my T3-11 with the servo in the right way !!!

No extra parts needeed... Only with the parts out of the box!!

The servo is double sided and, after more than 15 packs, no problems.













Au revoir.

Hello from France, hello Marek,

here's a short video of the new steering system.



Bye.

Romuald

Thanks for video

Regards
Marek Gadomski
Poland
vodafix@o2.pl