XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi Guys,

First, I apologize if I am asking questions that can be easily found from the Threads.

I am new to electric on road. I just bought a used T2 008 (Rubber Spec). I am not into race… basically I just want to have fun running at a wide-open space car park. I have a few questions that I hope you guys could kindly share your expertise with me or guide me through …I am going to order parts from aminhobbies for this T2 (If you know any site offer a better price please kindly tell me). my questions…

1- What are the parts that I must have
2- About the shock oil, must I use Xray brand shock oil? How about other brand?
3- About the gear ratio, must I follow the gear chart ratio given? I have a 30C 2S 5000Mah lipo, a 4.0 T LRP X12 brushless motor, and any suggestion for the spur and pinion gear? Based on the chat it indicated

Million thanks for the help

Spare parts will depend on what you might crash into

I would suggest a couple spare wishbones, basicaly anything that sticks out at the corners are the parts most liekely to break.

You don't have to use Xray oils, a lot of people use oil from a company called Much More who are sold through most model shops.

Try to stick with oil that is measured in 'cSt' instead of 'wt' as this is far more common on setup sheets etc.

I can't help with gearing as that is a Mod motor. If you're running in a car park etc you might find it too powerfull and uncontrollable.

Skiddins

By the way, I planning to run a lipo.. hpw to strap the lipo on the chassis? do you this ATOMIC Graphite Li-Po Battery Balance Plate can hold the lipo fit and tight ?? Thanks

there shud be some slots at either side of the part where the battery goes, put battery tape through these to hold it down

hth

Hi, yup 1.9 is the better choice I think.

Soon after the release of the 008 XRAY shipped a conversion kit to change from 2.375 to 1.77.
However, subsequently all the XRAY drivers I know (only a small %!) migrated to 1.9 and that was before the advent of software controlled variable timing speedos which for STOCK motors dictate a substantially lower gearing and an IR like 1.9 and above. The T3 series ships with 1.9

I do not drive mod so please take the following with a pinch of salt. Before the new speedos I would tend to start my 10.5 wind FDR around 5.5 on a new track and work downwards to 5.0-4.6. So I am thinking that for you a starting point in the region of 6.5 is probably OK.

Hopefully someone with mod experience will comment.

I run 13.5 with an FDR circa 7.2. I achieve this with 1.9 IR 86/23. If you like that is because I am lazy; I achieve my 10.5 8.17 FDR with 86/20. I never change spurs unless forced to (that is not a recommendation)

I cannot advise on 64dp, never used it.

You can certainly get to the gearing region you need with 48dp and your 87 spur. If you have nothing in your spares box and are starting from scratch then I would buy an 85 spur. If you check the gear chart you will see that these two spurs will allow you adjust the FDR in steps of about .15. IMHO you will not need finer adjustment.

I suspect you will need to get another, say 2, bigger pinions. Probably best waiting to see what comments you get form the mod guys. Your current FDR is 7.51 which may well be a bit low (target may be in the 6s) but probably OK for you to go out and have some fun – if the rear wheels can hold the power going through that gear ratio.

Sorry if I am preaching to the converted but I have no idea what state your tyres are in. Those 4 little patches of rubber make more difference than anything in terms of grip. So at some stage treat yourself to a new set of tyres and compare the difference. With mod you will need hard tyres, I run my 10.5 with 32R so I suspect you will want at least 36R in the summer, otherwise I am sure you will find the wear rate draconian.

And in all the above there is no right way; it is what suits you, what is in your spares box and the size of your your wallet

I am running 1.9 on an 009 with Front belt 5432(513mm) and rear belt 5446 (189mm). Now the 009 has the option to move the motor location forward but that requires different belts so I never tried it. I am sure the standard 009 location is exactly the same as the 008 and therefore you should be using 513/189.

I am sure one of the team drivers will correct me if wrong.

You do sometimes have a bit of leeway on the belts. I remember moving from one ratio to another (but cannot remember what they were!) and my then current rear belt was a bit long but I was able to take the slack up with the belt tensioning adjustment. I do not know if you could accomodate a 183mm belt with the tension adjustment - worth a try before spending the money on another belt I guess