XRAY - Model racing cars

When you turned the servo I see that you run a 1mm spacer between the servo saver and the link, but I have not seen a good picture of how you tie the other end of the link to the drag bar. I see that the 90* stock mount is trimmed off for clearance during lock to lock, just not sure how that other end is hooked up.

Any picture or description please.

I use a 10mm XRAY ballstud, 302655, through the steering rack and fix it with a thin nut on the bottom which I found in some toolbox, this nut is in turn then dremeled down so it does not touch the belt when the diff is used in the upper position. Between the nut and the bearing I use a "reversed" countersunk washer which takes out the pressure from the nut on the bearing. I hope you can understand what I mean. I use a camber link turnbuckle and the closed with hole ball joints.

But, probably the easiest way of doing this is to use a longer screw from under and put a ball which threads onto the screw, a ball which will fit the standard ball joints (not available from XRAY). So then you need only this part and a longer screw... and no dremel work needed. I mount the servo to the chassis with double sided tape.

I think more or less we got what you mean, but a picture would be very helpful

Have you actually found it makes any difference, or was it just to allow more room for electronics?

Thanks very much Alex.

Skiddins, I thought I would try it just because I'm rebuilding my car anyways and we have some down time right now.......Martin said no difference, it would be interesting to hear if Alex feels the same.

I do know that the mod was tried on the 009 as well, and there was a theory that the movement of the servo left to right was less disruptive to handling than a forward/back, supposedly influencing forward dive under braking. Probably need a mini "G" meter to really know if that's for fact or not.

You can also make the link straighter by adding shims on the servo saver and drilling a 2mm hole in the plastic servo arm.

Not sure if it would handle differently with the link more angled.

I spoke to Alex about this at the ETS

The servo in this position makes the steering less aggressive and more precise

This is because to achieve full lock for example, the servo uses a lot more of its travel than in the std position.

I tried it last night and it did feel good. But I didn't find it faster in lap time just a slightly smoother travel.


Stef

I think the longer travel is only because the pivot point for the servo link on the steering posts is slightly further out.
Especially if the servo saver is the standard kit item.

Skiddins

Hi Guys,

Does this help if i do the same conversion on the original T3? Just trying to figure out whether the effect is the same.

Thx

The original T3 has a different steering system. The problem would be to find a mounting point for the link between the servo arm and the steering assembly. Possibly, you can mount it through the quick saver screw (which you can move). The benefit would most likely be the same as when done for the 2011 car.

You pasting the servo in place with tape or do you make a new hole chassis

Alex are you still able to get full throw steering with this mod?

It would certainly be better when the servo saver is dead vertical. If the saver has to be moved over on the spline towards the center of the car you are not going to get even steering speeds between left and right.

If you mount the servo link to a screw hole you've made in the arm like the second lot of pictures, instead of above the ball joint like Alex's, you are going to use roughly the same servo resolution as the standard kit setup so there is no point in doing it.