XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi there.. I am returning to RC after many years.. and this time I am involving my 12 year old son.
I am planning on getting two T3 2011 (My son drove my Yokomo's for almost two years when he was

Of course.. I am basically starting over as beginner, although I do know my share.
We will set some layouts with PVCs in some big school parking lots we have near our house and one permanent track every now and then.

Some have recommended T3R instead of the T3 2011... some recommend T3 2011 with aluminum shocks since I will be running in parking lots.
Honestly, I am confused about what exactly do I need to get... any suggestions/help you can provide?
For the permanent track I will need to be in a 4.0:1 final drive area.. what spur/pinion do I need? (17.5t motor)

Do the adjustable pistons work too different from the 3-hole pistons? What do I gain from alu shock?
Any recommended set-up sheet for my use? Should I use bearing oil in my build or only after cleaning my bearings?
What bearing oil should I look for? I cannot find Hudy bearing oil in-stock anywhere.
Will the stock oil weight work for asphalt or what other suggestion should I try?

Will I be OK with HUD190001 -Hudy Tool Set w/Carrying Bag (Electric Touring Car) or do I need any other tool for the build?
Sorry for the newbie questions... but I am really starting over with RC.

PS - I plan on Tekin RS ESC, Team Epic D3 17.5t motor, SMC batteries, KO Propo transmitter/receiver/servo.

To calculate the overall ratio for your T3'2011/R: spur/pinion x 1.9/1.7 (internal ratio). To achieve a ratio of 4.0:1 I would suggest that you purchase some of the optional smaller 64 pitch spur gears, and you will need some large pinions.

The T3R is perfectly suited for your purpose of parking lot racing. The aluminum shocks are a nice option but performance wise not a huge improvement to the already great working plastic shocks which are included in the kit.

Adjustable shock pistons makes setup adjutments easier. They have a smaller piston hole as well which makes the shock action a little heavier, but the difference is not big from the fixed pistons.

A good idea is to start to run the car with the included kit basic set-up and work from there.

I really recommend that you add a drop of HUDY bearing oil to all the kit bearings in the initial build, it will help increase the lifetime of the bearings.

Alex:

Thank you very much for your reply. At the time of your post I have already purchased two T3 2011s and are on my way.
I wonder if the Spec-R gear diff is a part designed for the T3 or is this a NT1 diff being fitted with 50mm drive shafts?

LowBoost,

I recommend you to start with normal diff because the Original gear diff is coming soon.

Lowboost,

The Spec R diff will work but requires 50mm drive shafts or spacing the arms out an extra 1.5mm all around which will affect shock angles and other things. As Martin said the Xray one should be ready soon and it will be a perfect fit! The gear diff's seem to be getting more and more popular on high bite tracks but on low bite or bumpy tracks they do make the car harder to drive! I would recommend using a spool/ball diff till you are more comfortable with the car and then start trying new things. My car at the Snowbirds was box stock and super easy to drive and fast!

EA

Thank you all for taking some of your busy schedule to answer my questions.
I really appreciate the support. Looking forward to have some real fun with these cars!

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