XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi guys,
while assemblied my 011, I have seen 2 importants issues :

1) Servo Savox installing is very very difficult, because there are 3 holes on the chassis instead 1 hole+1 buttonhole.

2) Novak Ballistic 10.5 installing is impossible using zero axis position, there is too much interference between screw of the motor & up-deck.
Why didn't predict any drain area on up-deck as 2010 version?

Thank you very much!

im not sure what you mean by the servo question? mount the alloy servo posts to the servo and see which holes in the chassis they line up to.

the top deck need filing as page 28 section 7 shows motor and a red circle on top deck

With the Savox low profile, is impossible use the holes on the chassis....(but the same issue has been on t3 2010 & t2 2009), is need to have an bottonhole instead 2 near holes.

I know page28 sect.7, but to resolve the issue, using Novak Ballistic, is need to rotate it of 120°. So the wiring harness will be too much long...or (in opposite) the sensor cable too much near to the moquette of the track...

Bye

fits fine with some carfull shimming





caqn u post a picture of the motor on what you mean?

I think he means the interfeirance between the motor can and the top deck, its a known problem with the guys using Tekin Redline motors.
I've seen some guys file the upper deck, but i've also seen a upper deck break in this place this weekend just gone.
I've seen one guy turn the can so that the recessed holes for the motor bolts line up with the top deck, giving enought clearance.

Im running a Savox Low Profile servo too, i've just had to mount the servo on the rubber grommets and revolve the rear post slightly to get it to sit decently.

On a side note, where do you race Mark?
I've noticed your from Doncaster.
Im from Rotherham, and usually race at the Doncaster Touring Car Club, Stocksbridge and Ardent Racing?

Browny_37

Thanks for the pictures guys, I will put asap my car

x Mark
Which hole have you used for fix the Savox?

So, for me the critical point is (using Ballistic) the sensor cable near to the moquette of the track...it woul be better to fix the motor as central axis (see following pictures).

Savox servo fits without any problems. 2mm shim between servo and posts, use the holes furthest apart on the chassis, then shim the saver as necessary.



The motor is a bit of a frustration and I do not like the idea of making the top-deck any narrower or creating a weakpoint under stress, so I opted for adding 1mm shims to the motor screws (fairly large diameter ones), this allowed for a lot more motor movement, without it touching the top deck. What would be nice is an optional 1mm plate (U shaped) that could be added to shim the motor away (this may be detrimental to weight distribution, but are we mere mortals going to notice the motor shimmed 1mm outboard?, I think even 0.5 would help a fair bit, but i didnt have any 0.5mm shims with enough surface area to make it feel bolted.

The other alternative is to make the switch over to 64dp, which pushes the motor forward a little more.

The Nosram PureEvolution/LRP X12 motors have a chamfered can, so not a problem at all. And will bolt directly in.

When I run Ballistic motors I mark the motor screw that is causing the clearance issues, remove it from the motor and grind that part of the head down so its even with the bevel of the motor can, your going to have at least 4 sides of the hex left which will be enough to tighten and loosen the motor can screw itself, more than that and your over tightening it anyways. This give me about 4 teeth tighter mess over what I could run before. Before the motor is all the way against the back cut of the motor mount itself, and the extent of the motor mount screw slots.

Another motor mount mod I keep thinking of doing, is putting a long cut towards the bottom of the mount, that would enable you to run the normal right side motor screw, and then the lower one, (sort of like what Josh Cyrils car has for a motor mount), this would give you two good mount points, and you wouldn't have to fight with the back screw that goes threw the gear. The stock motor mount has sufficient material to incorporate this mod, as a additional option for securing the motor, but in 17.5 classes where those large pinions are the norm, this screw would make the job a lot easier.

Sorry for the date of the pictures, was impossible to have t3 011 in January...

Look in the ardent news section it was open this Monday gone as it was a bank holiday. Plus I was there with others lol

Updated after first test on moquette track

The car is very very fast and I'm very very happy!

No issues on the steering system for me..obviously must be always all correct shim on the uniball