XRAY - Model racing cars

Peakki,

nice to hear that you like the car.

If you drive on technical track, on which a lot of in-corner steering is needed, use 1mm shim. If the track has long sweepers and you do not need that much in corner steering but rather cornering speed, use no shim

What kind of servo do you use when you had to cut from the ball joint?

There is no team preference on how to mount batteries. Alex, Teemu have connectors in the front, I have in the rear

Hi martin,
Can you explain the difference between running 0 bump steer and 2mm bump steer.

Peakki,

strange because I mount Sanwa servo on mine T3 011 and I had enough play there. Teemu had to cut the ball because at that time he used prototype steering servo linkages.

Anyway, nice to hear that you like the car and I hope you will like also how it drives. We tried to do our best as usual

Hello,

I'm new to electric touring (for winter) and would like to try the T3R therefor. If I should want to upgrade it to a carbon chassis, can I use the one from the T3'11 for both the upper and main chassis?

Because of the servo, I have had some work to bring down the 808 radio plate posts and RC-box for about 3.5mm for the Orion servos which are different to standard servos. Does an Orion servo fit the T3R or should I get a common one?

Thanks,
Stefan

Hi Stefan,

If you want to use T3 011 chassis in your T3R, you would not need only top deck and chassis but also steering system

I would suggest to buy servo for 1/10 electric cars. The reason is that servo for buggy has different parametres than servo which should be used for on road (torque, speed...)

@Martin: At the ETS, last weekend, Bart Wubben and me had also that the balljoint was hitting the Topdeck. Not as the car was static, but when the car flexed.
We both did cut away some of the joint.
I was using a kopropo lowprofile servo and Bart (i believe) a Sanwa servo.

Thanks for the info, Martin. The reason why I asked about the servo was that I normally like the Orion servos and was about to get a 10kg @ 0.07sec on 60°. But I'll play it save and get a different brand servo for the T3R.

Ran the car for the first time last night using the basic carpet setup. Car felt really stable and the back end was stuck to the track,
on the fast sweepers the car was awsome but on the slow parts the car pushed of power going in. would running the +75 roll centre blocks give me more steering. Overall i was really happy

Check a nice video of building the T3'11 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-vTHrY2SKg

Thanks to Frank Büstgens from www.karorace.de for the video.

Setup for high traction carpet

xform/index.php?act=view&ID=12&setup=t3_2011

Great steering and rotation whilst maintaining stability



Stefan C

RC Disco

Today first laps with the 2011.
There is a issue with the '302653 - BALL END 4.9MM WITH THREAD 6MM' part.
My car and also my friends car didn't have ball ends that would have threads all the way, so we couldn't use accerman setting without any shims. Had to use it with 1mm shims.

Have to ask from other drivers in my country that do their cars have the same issue.

I ran the car without shims on high traction carpet. With shims the Ackerman is way to aggressive.

Did you manage to tighten them all the way, so there was no gap?

No problem

Hi martin,
Can you explain the difference between running 0mm and 2mm shim under the steering block?

thanks!

Peakki, Zzoebl

I noticed this on one of my friends car, he did not tight the ball joints to the end. Then I took the screwdriver and tight it fully, I had to put little more pressure

We will check the threads on ball joints.

Manual says that no shim should be used as basic. However if you are missing incorner steering, put one mm shim

Teamsanwa,

If you use 2mm shim under the steering block, you will change bump steer angle. Bump steer influence amount of incorner steering. So, use shim when you need more steering, if you have too much steering, then remove the shim.