XRAY - Model racing cars

Are the aluminum shocks a significant improvement over stock?

TRF 416 standard alu shck bladders. Dunno the part number.

Thanks Joep.

Below is the method that I have used for months now to set near 0 rebound when using the aluminum shocks.

1) Use a #56 or #57 drill bit and drill a hole in the shock cap.
2) I use an air removal tool to ensure there are no air bubbles in the shock.
3) Assemble the shock with the shaft fully extended and the shaft should be facing downward.
4) Invert the shock so that the shaft is on top and unscrew the cap 3 or 4 times, be careful not to unscrew it too much.
5) Push the shaft in and hold it then screw the cap back on. Excess oil should leak from the oil in the cap.
6) Push the shaft in and pull it out a few times and there should now be little rebound.

Initially when I developed this procedure I used to repeat these steps 2 times to be safe and then I soon noticed that 1 time was enough. It's near impossible to get 0 rebound so I always account for there being 10%. I will post a pick of the drilled shock cap later.

A subject that has always bemused me. What are the pros and cons of setting 0% vs 100%, when would you use one over the other?

Why is that? Not disbelieving just want to understand

Is it very subtle, or more obvious?

I must say on our quite bumpy asphalt track as the rebound reduces to minimal the car has always become unsettled, ie it doesn't ride the track/bumps smoothly so I have always gone for a high rebound setting

Thanks Fred. Good luck at the KO race.

Bill