XRAY - Model racing cars

do you like my crown gear and bearings?
i forgot them about 3 days after a last 5 minutes rain race

2010 B-Euros were ran in very wet conditions for 1.5 days. I saw the same thing after each run. Fortunately it wasn't so bad because we used A LOT of grease in between the 13x20 bearings. The problem was only at rear and water seemd to get in from between the input gear and 13x20 bearing.

You have to strip down the car immediately after a wet race and spray a lot WD40 on steel parts (even before running!).

BTW you should remove the inner seal from the bearing!

The new 3-bearing upgrade might help with this "problem". Maybe someone will comment on that

yes from now on i strip all the inner protective and leave only a rubber on at the most outer bearing

i still haven't purchased the 3 bearing pinion gear
i will test it sometime
altho i still have to say that those bearings are big pain in the ass for this car

That looks rough.........
Do you have to but a different pinion to use 3 bearings?
I thought you wwould just replace the spacer with a bearing?

Those gears may clean up ok. Deon't look too pitted. I've raced on worse. Scub 'em clean with oil to get that rust off and see how they come out.

do you guys seal your diff cases to the chassis or just bolt them on dry? i learned to put a nice little continous bead of marine grease on the chassis where the diff cases contact it to provide a seal from water and dirt. I also use a little film of marine grease around the faces when I put the cases together.

If you do this along with the new bearing tip they released (which ive been doing for over year now, except i use a para-synthetic moly marine grease) you will have basically sealed the the diffs from anything getting inside. Not only does is extend your service times but this will also allow you pull your chassis components and hose down the car at the track for a quick cleaning at those really dirty races. (remember your diffs are completely sealed with water proof grease)

i do this but i still pull my car down to the diffs after every 2-3 weekends, everything is always dry and looks brand new inside with no dirt or anything

we play in the wet on a regular basis . follow the new bearing grease guide .i strip car after every meeting so its not an issue for me . .

That marine grease sounds a good idea, I'll try that and thanks for the tip

if your running 2010 diff case be sure to REMOVE the little dust cover lip (easily done with a body reamer or dremel tool) all this does it trap dirt or in the case of using teh grease tip it creates ALOT of drag, remove it and apply grease tip from the OUTSIDE making sure to not get it into the cvd, much less drag and agian your bearing is sealed as best as possible.


another build trick i tryed out last rebuild was with the cvds... alot of people build them dry some grease them, either way you eitehr have to clean and regrease frequently or have a gritty driveline with accelerated wear and no protection from rust.

What i did with my last build was take all 6 of the cvds and dissassemble them and soak them in the parts washer (degreaser in a tub will do the same) then take them out and dry them off. i then assemble them dry and spray the joint with Schaeffer's moly roller chain lube.... this stuff is great ive been using it on my motocross bikes for about a year now and trust me this stuff when used right repels dirt and dust. It is basically a penetrating oil and moly lube. Once you spray the CVD joints wiggle them around so the spray works into the pins and slides. then wipe them down with paper towels to remove the excess and blow the excess out of the joint with compressed air. they will still look wet after you remove the excess, build your car like normal and by the next day the joints will be 100% dry and ready to go. Youll notice a big difference in how smooth the cvds and drivetrain feel. And when i tore my buggy down today i did NOT redo my cvds they looked perfect.

The next idea i had was to elimate drag of the grease on the ring and pinion gears so this rebuild i removed the grease and coated them with this moly roller cahin lube. After i had it assembled i gave the center diff a little flick and WOW the drive train is as free as a 1/10th 4wd buggy. My idea on how to guage the effectiveness is by the temperature of the out side of the pinon gear with the schaeffer's in the cvd joints my temps went from 140s to 120s i think the rest of the heat/friction in the drivetrain will be relieved from the ring and pinions and hope to see temps in the 100s or 110s as proof. I will report back on my findings after todays race.

Just thought id follow up and let everyone interested that my cvds STILL look perfect after racing all day yesterday, car was so dusty and filty after one of the qualifiers and the only thing shiny and clean were my cvds and bearings......

my drivetrain is also very free and not gritty at all. the car is extremely smooth i wish some of the guys from the track that saw my car in person would get on here (a few have accounts) vouch for what they saw the schaeffer's moly roller chain lube is pretty amazing stuff.

come find me at the southern nationals Jason ill be bringing a couple cases of it you can also see it for yourself as i dont plan on cleaning my car all weekend it works that good!

Cool, I will be there.

Do you know if any company ships this to the U.K? I've had a search.