XRAY - Model racing cars

hello all My local track is dry loose clay it seems no matter what tire i run it is the same from switch 2.0 clay with aka inserts,or 2.0 clay stock insert,aka blocks,proline barcodes..i have a lot of tires and tune my car with em pending theirs some traction... im thinking can thicker diff oil help and can u tell me what it will do.. im running an 808 2010 E mmm tekin 1900,monster slipper diff helps a lot!... on 5s... oil 5frt,5 center 6 rear ... indoor it ran better with thicker rear because after 5min the oil heated up and made it hard to drive running 5/5/5.. thanx car is gr8 i won r 1st outdoor race.. im new to dirt as indoor touring dead..

hey bud,

would love to help but if you could type your post in grammatically coherent sentences it would help a lot this isn't texting.


as far as "thicker" diff oil is concerned:
- in the center diff thicker oil allows power to be transferred to all 4 wheels more equally. I like to put it in real car terms but in the newer Subaru STIs you can adjust the bias of power from Front to Rear. thicker diff oil will move you towards a 50-50 F/R power bias. If you go thinner than inherently you are moving the curve to the front with, say for example, a 60-40 or 70-30 F/R power bias

if your on a loose track, my personal suggestion would be to run 5F, 5C, and either 2 or 3K in the rear. that should put you in the ball park and everything else should be chassis changes

sorry as u can c i text a lot.... sounds good I have an extra diff I will try 2 or 3k... by the way running a castle monster,tekin 1900kv 5cell lipo with monster slipper center diff

gotcha I figured that.

I personally am not a fan of the slipper diff. It makes the car feel funny. I came from running electric into gas and part of what makes electric "smoother and easier", in my opinion, is the instantaneous power, with the slipper diff I think you loose a little bit of that. I would use the standard diff and just let her eat.

then you have other issues. If its chipping gears then you need to check the shimming of the rear diff, check all the bearings in the diff housing, and check the diff housing itself. your not chipping gears because of a standard center diff. something is worn out or not shimmed correctly

I did all I can ,this has been a issue for 6 months I replaced bearings and shimmed it trust me.. items i replaced:
went from 808 09 to 2010 chassis
2010 diff case /bulk head
I have 5 packs of shims trust me i tried
alum rear chassis brace
I have 30 diff bearings replace them all the time
8 center shaft bearings replace them all the time
money is not an issue.. the only thing that work is to remove the seal from the inner pinion gear bearing beacuse it also would come apart and jam between the the 2.. the slipper diff did help I'm guessing it's the same problem in the other thread and well I posted 1 as well about "chipped bevel gear"

I had something similar happen. My pinions can chew up a bearing after a few hard hits. I just removed the shield from the bearing. Right now I have Boca Revolution berings in with the shields in place, we'll see how those hold up. I added one shim on the diff bearing on the ring gear side, slideing the diff over for tighter mesh in the front. My rear has no shims.

I'm not too concerned about grit in my gearbox getting in the missing shield bearing, by the time it deos I'm due to change the diff fluid anyway.

I lost a 41th ring gear due to bearing meltdown $$$. That was a cool part, I put the 43 back in for now.