XRAY - Model racing cars

love the new log in system...wayyyy better lol. Anyways...Bren I looked at my front shocks closely before rebuilding them yesterday and saw that the membranes were in bad shape...I think I may be screwing the cap on too tight to the point that it cuts the membrane. The bleed hole is half covered by the membrane edge so when screwing them on I guess a good rule of theumb is to stop when you see the shock body reach this point through the hole. I changed the membranes in my rear shocks a while back and havent had leaks so I can only assume thats the cause. Time will tell.

Last race I had a tiny hole in the membrame.probably the lock nut hit the membrame.Maybe this is the leaking problem and not the o-rings.
I never had a leaking shock before this 1 so the o-rings cant be that bad.

It may be the problem everyone is complaining about. It is very easy to strip that membrane upon closing the shock. I bet most people are doing this and not realizing it.

Hi Bren.

I am running the stock setup on our track with the 41 overdrive gear (bumpy astro ) but was having trouble with the rear being loose . I repositioned the rear shocks to the outside holes on the arm, took some droop off the back , lowered the camber link on the shock tower and also moved the camer link to the outer holes on the rear hubs.

The handling felt really good after this and was very easy for me to drive. Although this felt good to drive I still didnt have a lot of corner speed due to the car drifting out. How can I keep the cars handling characteristics the same but carry a little more on power corner speed ?

Someone suggested changing my diff oil from 5f 7c 2r to 5f 5c 2r but I cant get my head round why this would be better. Is it because more power would be sent to the front wheels under acceleration ? Also someone suggested going a lot higher in the rear diff to maybe 4000 or 5000 but again I cant understand why this would be better as I would imagine this would kill my off power steering .

Thanks

Hi there Bren, another novice question for you.
On my XB8TQ I am about to order some parts to keep in stock and found on A Main they have the XB8 active diff on sale.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... fferential
Is this a good thing to have?
what characteristic changes does this make to the car?
And if I get it do I need 1 - 2 or 3?
And are there any other parts required?

Also these are on sale http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... ring-Steel
And
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... ring-Steel
And
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... ring-Steel

Would it be a good thing to get these, and do I need all of them and are there any more parts required to fit to my car?
Also how many of each are required?
I only have used spare standard drive shafts on hand so some new ones might be good to keep.

Thanks again Bren

Thanks Bren, I will see if anyone answers here but I will email xray as well.
Also going to have a read up on the active diff now.

Thanks Bren.

Will let you know how I get on

Pete

will this active diff work on the XT8 2009 Spec?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... fferential

do you guys know how many teeth are on this large bevel gear? i'm assuming it's for a buggy and i will have to buy the 41T or 43T?

bren, that setup you gave a few posts ago is that your starting setup for everywhere now or just for astro turf. it seems that not to many people are happy with the generic setup that you get in the 2010 808 manual . im just after a good starting setup to work from.
thanks again for all your great advise and help....

Bren in your setup, when you say shorter for more rear traction do you mean shorter wheelbase, by moving the spacers on the inner and outer of the rear lower arms ? Thanx again I'll try this setup for a starting point