XRAY - Model racing cars

My T3 is 1350, needed to add 40g.

That’s with, low profile KO servo, KO 302f receiver, lrp sxx, lrp lipo and lrp x12 motor, light weight body shell.

The light weight body shell saves about 20g on its own

I recently got my 009 down to 1340 with 5300 Lipo, "normal" bodyshell and without titanium screws. It has the lightweight rear axle but I htink the T3 has this on the front too.

I know from past experience that changing KO from 40 mhz to 2.4 saves you 10gm on the receiver. The rest was really severe pruning of wires, which were overlong and untidy and the removal of the enormous engine heatsink/fan. As far as I can see everyone at our club running at 1350 has dispensed with cooling.

A purely personal view but I ran a lightweight Mazda 6 the year before last
and 2nd meeting out one hit up the rear destroyed it so I have given lightweights a wide berth ever since! maybe I was just unlucky.

Tricksy, you are running full size servo which is +10g compared to onroad low-profile servo. Go with or take the Futaba BLS low-profile if you have the cash. Loose the extra balancing weight. Get the car to balance by:
- use light low-profile metal geared servo
- moving the lipo more out of center
- move front belt to right side (switch pulley positions)
- try to move the ESC and RX as much as possible
- mount the transponder to a different place

You have 10g+35g=45g just hanging on the car doing nothing. Using low-profile light servo makes the left-right balance better. And get a lightweight body (at least -15g) which brinds you easily UNDERWEIGHT.

Wow thanks for all the responses guys, wasn't thinking I would get so much!

Right basically I am running:-

Futaba 9551 low profile servo (That weighs quite a bit)
GM Genius 120 Speed Control (WAY heavier than LRP)
Speed Passion V3 motor
GM 40C 5000 Lipo (Actually an IP Cell but it's made in the same factory, weighs the same and looks the same)

Tyres are Sorex 28BM

Bodyshell is Mazdaspeed 6 and is a lightweight one

I can post a pic to show my wiring layout but to be honest i'm at the point where if I shorten any wires by 2-3mm they won't reach!

UPDATE:

Pic:
PS Apoligies about my untidy wiring - I do try to get it neat.

Move the Rx right into the centre of the car. 1.5mm clearance is enough. Ditch the ESC fan and flip the ESC 90* so you can shorten the motor wires and move the ESC right up against the belt just like the Rx. Also move your PT to in front of the battery. Just moving the PT will let you get rid of at least 7g on the battery side of the car. Mount your servo with aluminum screws.

Right, little update for you all.

Have replaced every screw on the car with the equivalent titanium option, replaced droop screws with titanium also.

Moved reciever over towards centre but didnt move speed controller as it makes it really awkward to get to the sensor lead which I often do using a laptop to program my genius.

Car now balances with 30 grams on lipo side and weighs.....

*drum roll*

1346 grams!