XRAY - Model racing cars

Sounds like you don't have enough oil in the shock.

Heres how I built my T3 Shocks

I insert the ball joint into the cap and then thread the cap on to the body to ensure the ball joint is in correctly.

Assembled the bodies and filled them with oil and used a shock pump to remove the air, I had to do this three times before I got all the air out. I filled the bodies all the way to the brim.

Then insert the membrane (with or with out insert) into the cap then screw the cap on to the body with the piston all the way out. This gave me 100% rebound and no air in the shock, I then bled the oil out using the bottom cap to reduce the rebound to 25%, you should be able to do the same to get to 0%, just take your time and make sure to don't remove to much oil otherwise you will need to start again.

Hope this helps

Here is how I have built my shocks since 2004 and it always works well.

My method relies on a ride shock tool (vacume chamber).

Fill 1/2 full with oil. Move the Piston slowly up and down to free air bubbles trapped under the piston. Place shocks in the chamber and apply a vacuum. Wait till the visible bubbles have risen to the top.

repeat previous step till no bubbles appear after cycling the piston up and down several times.

Fill to top of shock body and repeat purging process.

Next if you have older shocks ie 008 and before. You can take a #60 drill bit and make a small hole above the knurled section of the shock cap. (updating your shock cap to current vented spec).

angle the bladder and slip it into the shock body.

thread on the shock cap assembly 1 or 2 turns. Compress shock shaft to approximate rebound value while screwing on the cap. I actually fabbed a 2.5mm spacer to get the same rebound. Keep in mind the speed you compress the shock shaft and how quickly you tighten the shock shaft should be approximately the same for all the shocks to work best.

Match the shocks for rebound. I usually end up with fronts with a tiny bit more rebound than rears.

hope this helps