XRAY - Model racing cars

I would try more droop at the rear first. it's already got weight forward with your difference in ride height but it does not look like it can go far enough. 2deg toe out on the front, these two combined should be quite dramatic for the turn in.

I would go lower,like 5K in center,smaller 1.4 front piston,smaller 2.2 front sway bar,& move your front arms back all the way. I could only imagine from my own experience the 1.5 pistons are letting the front end hit the dirt when the weight transfers causing zero turn in,in some instenses. You may lose a very little steering coming out of corners with lower center diff but gain it back with the softer front sway bar. You could also move your akerman mount back & while not exactly more corner speed but a little more responce/snap at the very first part of turn in & one you get that the other changes will help from there on out. Front arms back will be the biggest improvment of what I've listed.

Thanks Butcher, your post in particular was what I was looking for....

I'll try as many as the tips as I can and see how they go

Thanks

I agree with most of the points that zerodefect has made above. My recommendations would be:
The first thing I would do is to lower the rear roll centre (move the rear inner camber link mount up one or two holes) this should free up the rear more entering a corner. Second I would move the front upper shock mounting point out one hole to the centre. The third change would be to move the inner toe link position to the rearward holes. If that still isn't enough you can increase your rear droop 2-3mm.
Double check your tire choice as well, inside jobs??? Weird. That might be the ticket for your track though, but I have never seen them used outdoors since you need a track is clean enough to eat off from to use them normally. Holeshots might be a better choice.
Another thing to try is a bit thicker front shock oil. I noticed you buggy lifting a rear wheel going into a corner, which is because there is a ton of weight shifting to the front of the buggy very fast because of the thin front shock oil and the rear roll centre being high, so the rear suspension doesn't roll like the front does. The rear ride height of your buggy in the video look high, but I think that is down to the front suspension diving and a lack of roll from the front, so your ride height is probably actually ok if you've measured it properly and nothing is binding.
Your issues probably don't lie in the diff setup. Mostly they are in the suspension geometry. The changes you've made to the rear roll centre, ackerman, and front shock mounting position all reduce turn in, which is why your seeing the weak turn in.

First, let me say that I dont consider myself knowledgeable about set up.
Now that I've got that disclaimer out of the way-from what I've learned so far, tires are the most important thing, like 80% of a good setup, and easiest to change (but not the cheapest) I'd make sure I had the right ones for the track first.
Second, someone said to go stiffer on the springs, but I dont understand why, because less weight transfer to the front off power takes away front grip and and consequently steering. Unless, like Butcher said the front is bottoming out because of overly soft setup. I've run the silver springs on some seriously slippery tracks though without any problems with turn in. I'm running the secret hot kit setup.
I had horrible understeer with my 1/10 elec. buggy, and tried many things, but the fix was to go softer springs in the front, to get more grip. Everything else I tried (roll bars, roll center, even tires) resulted in small improvements, but nothing I would call a fix.
That's all I have, Good luck.

X2

Try some harder springs in the rear and softer up front.

Thanks guys, this is what I'll be changing based on the suggestions...

Move front shocks on towers to Upper #2
Move rear roll center up a notch
Change akerman posi
Change centre diff to 5k (Will be 4-5-2)
Put in grey-blue springs in rear - silver still up front

Mess with tyres - droop on the next race day.. will try the 2.2 swaybar on the front aswell on the day if it arrives in time.

Will let you know how it goes and complain if it still isn't good

Dont rule out moving the front arm back it adds a load of front traction when the weight transfers,is free & easily changed back.You'll know if you like it within 2 laps.

You mean change the shims around so I'd have 4mm in the front and none at the back of the arm?

Definitely keep us updated. I'm interested in seeing how you car reacts. I think you should maybe increase the front shock oil still, but wait until you hit the track and see what happens first.

Your ride ht setting is what scares me the most. When any my cars handle well with the front ride ht more than 2mm different from the rear then somethings wrong with my setup.

I never set f/r ride ht more than 2mm apart. This cars real sensitive to ride ht/ droop.

For that track I'd start with Josh Wheelers roar nats setup with AKA Gridirons.

xform/index.php?act=view&ID=896&setup=xb808





When I'm way off I go back to his worlds setup:

xform/index.php?act=view&ID=559&setup=xb808

(as its close to stock, but faster) and then if needed:
-switch to gray blu springs and 1.3 pistons , adjust fluid as needed.
-increase droop to slow the car down (I'm not Josh Wheeler by a long shot)
-27/28 or 28/29 mm ride ht
-try 573 diffs or 553. Its easy to pull the center diff at the track.
-stock 10 caster blocks for small tracks with tight off power turns.
Thats about it for me, other than fine tuning the wing, front toe, radio expo.

I see one may mount the shocks at the row above
using the outer armholes

in the manual it is stated not to do that..
this gives a lower droop of the arms no ?

I don't know why you are all so afraid of
using 7000, even 10.000 in the rear

it really stabilses the rear of all xray buggys
even more in dusty conditions

I use 4000/4000/7000 and it's on rails on every track I go
with minor adjustments

I can't go past 5 in the rear because I never can go lower than 5 in the center. Never been able to use 4 in the center.

So far I've tried (with various setups):

5/5/5- pretty well balenced on hard dusty.

5/7/3- favorite base setup, medium track, medium grip

5/5/3- same as 5/7/3 for a slippery track, to cure understeer
on entry, 5/5/5 powers out of turns more consistantly.

7/5/3- more on power steering mid to exit, the front can actually pull the car around a corner and sometimes whip the rear out if the front pulls too hard.

4/7/4- tight track, more rotation midcorner, didn't like, steered like an airboat

Correct no shims behind,all shims in front.