XRAY - Model racing cars

In my manual it says to tighten the bearings then back off a 1/12 of a turn. Is that what Im suppose to do? Also, put the front bearing in with the bearing side facing the front and the rear bearing rubber shield facing inwards as well correct?

If your using the alum spacer then you can tighten the screws down. If no spacer then like the instructions say even though several of of hightened the screws down when we did NOT have the spacer. It seems to be hit or miss on having bearing problems & nobody has a for sure reason why. I can tell you what I did & never had a problem.Where the dogbone goes in the center diff I ground down the end of the ball where it would hit inside the center outdrive about 1mm, I also ground the slots in the center outdrives about 1mm deeper.My buddy I race with did zero mods & had no problems either.The bearings go in with a rubber shield facing the center diff on the outside bearing & you can use double rubber seals there but the inside bearing must go in with the metal shield facing that diffs gear teeth or for double rubber shielded bearings remove the shield facing the gear teeth.The idea is to never have a shield pop off & get stuck between the diff pinion & crown gear due to extreame chassis flex. Like I said I never had a problem but take the front & rear shock towers & squeeze you'll see how much chassis flex is possable on this car. Not a bad thing as this car handles better than any other I have owned(most) & my chassis is about 2mm or less all the way through now & flexes alot & other than flywheel & center diff stopping when they hit dirt it handles better than new