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To supplement Butcher and Bren, who have great info in their posts.
For more steering/rotation to go tight against the pipe and have it rotate around I would look at the following:
Front end: Like Bren and Butch said, the Silver springs would help but then again, you don't want to get too much weight transfer to the front that your are over loading the tires and making them break loose (think of what ABS does in your real car versus just locking the brakes up, same principle, once you lose traction in a tire it might as well be a rubber block sliding in the dirt).
Rear end: I would keep your toe at 3*, and the stock sway bars on there, but like Butch said, I would move the rear arms forward, but I would also increase your anti-squat to 3*, this will really help the car rotate (not slide) offpower as well as square up well coming off of the corner. I would also look at going up in the rear diff, the lower you go, the more traction you will have coming in and more rotation you have going out, I would look at 4 or 5 in the rear diff (heck I run 7 in my rear diff). Also like Bren said, I would move the rear link to the inner hole if you want more reaction from the rear, this will feel loose but it actually gains traction, it's hard to describe. Then you can fine tune your roll center by moving the inner link up and down to find the right camber gain/roll you want...
Roll bars, in my opinion, add traction. If you pay attention to full scale road racing, a lot of the teams will go with what is called a 'big bar, soft shock' setup to generate as much grip as they can. When you think about it, a bigger bar will push the inside tire into the ground harder as the chassis rolls so you're getting more work with both tires and more traction equals more speed and less tire wear. BUT since this is offroad, we have to tune our cars for the bumps and jumps THEN find a good balance for the corners..... So if you're running on a REALLY bumpy track, drop the bars front and rear, but if you get to run on a REALLY smooth track you can bump the bars up and actually gain traction and lower lap times.
Brakes also play into the game A LOT. I usually run a little more rear than front. Best way to tune the brakes is with spoked wheels or big dots on solid dished wheels. Dial the brakes and bias to where you want it and pay extra close attention to if/when/how/which end wheels lock up. A smart pit guy is invaluable in situations like this. Heck if there are a couple corners on the track where your car seriously lacks, you can have him stand by ONE corner at a time to get your car better in that situation....
Whelp wrote a book and didn't mean to, that's how setup goes......
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