XRAY - Model racing cars

the advantage of the one oring is, as you mentioned, that the shock shaft moves little more smoother than with two O rings. When the shaft moves smoother, it gives you little more traction. However, I prefer two o-rings because the shock will never leak. This is the advantage mainly for long finals.

Hi guys,

about the Alu shocks, i bought them for my 08NT1, building them was no problem, on the other hand, setting the rebound was a huge problem, tryed to do it but kept doinf it wrong, saw the thread about them and tryed TeamGP's way, i couldnt get it right so i switched back to the plastic ones whenever i open the lower cap and bleed a bit, the 2 orings stick outside the shock body, when i try to push them back, the oil bleeds more and i get 0% rebound. i hated them and never used them on my nt1, they are still brand new.

Martin/ Andrew, how do you get the rebound set on those shocks??

cheers

Ali

I will use the 2 O-ring option. I need the shock's to perform consistently expecially during the main. I will rebuild them and test them this weekend. I'll let you know how it turn's out.

Once again Thank's

I'm having the same problem as KWT-NT1 mentioned above. Is their a special trick with the rebound of the aluminum shock's? When i try to bleed them they just don't rebound at all.

Hi Guys,

I insert the membrane into the shock seperately.
I slowly push the membrane down into the shock while ever so slightly squeezing the mebrane into an oval shape. As I push the mebrane down and squeeze it, the excess will leak out. Keep squeezing and pushing down till the membrane is sitting on top of the shock body. Take the lid, with foam installed, push the lid over the mebrane and do it up.

Thats how I do it and have successfully rebuild many sets of shocks with the same rebound every time.

Takes a while to get the knack of it, but its worth a try.

Cheers
Andrew