XRAY - Model racing cars

I've been running it loose, and also gluing two pieces of fuel tubing to the bottom of the tank (to fill the gap of the sloping part of the tank). The theory being that when the chassis flexes, the whole tank will be pushed up at the same rate. The failure point on all broken tanks seem to be the same, right where the front mounting tab meets the tank.

Does the new tank have a different part number? If not, how do I tell if the tank is the "new batch"? Are there reinforcements around the tab, or is it a different plastic composition?

I think you have to have the new version of the tank. Same looks, same product code, but it won't brake! Correct me if I'm wrong.

Like I said... I've run about 10+ races with one tank and the car was bought used! Then I replaced that tank because the inner stone fuel filter came loose. The new tank (I'm sure it was the old flawed design!) broke after the first race - about 40-50 minutes of driving. Now I'm back to the good-old-tank and it still lasts.

Just get a new tank that is new design, mounted it loose and you won't have any problems. And don't leave fuel inside the tank between races because it somehow dissolves the inner fuel filter and it comes loose.

You will get more steering from the rear (aka, sliding) which isn't too bad with the truck and the amount of grip it produces.