XRAY - Model racing cars

Got these but is it just me or are they a pig to get the rebound right .. followed instructions but when release lower shock cap and do the first stroke the pressure displaces the O rings and just allows all the oil to run out and allows air in ..can get the standard ones fine to work well but these hmmm any tips that no one tells you about ?
are you meant to release the lower cap fully as it shows ?

Thanks

Just a reminder that you should have the shock upside down when you unscrew the bottom cap. Also, when you push the piston down, screw the cap back on immediately, without letting the piston rise back up. If this doesn't work, then just unscrew the bottom cap and let gravity do its work for about 20 to 40 seconds, without pushing the piston down.

thank you hmmm why does it not say that in instructions

so when in this sequence do i tighten the cap? as suggested is it after every in stroke or just on the initial one ?

After the shock is assembled you have to set the Shock Rebound.
1. To set the shock rebound, release shock lower cap.
2. VERY SLOWLY do the following: Fully pull out the shock rod, push it back in fully, and then fully pull
it out once more. Repeat this procedure the following number of times to achieve the desired Shock
Rebound setting:
10 times - approximately 75% rebound (high rebound - suggested for very low traction track)
15 times - approximately 50% rebound (medium rebound - suggested for standard track)
20 times - approximately 25% rebound (low rebound - suggested for very high traction track)
During the rebound adjustment procedure shock oil will leak out of the shock body through the O-ring(s)
on the shock rod... this is normal. During the rebound adjustment procedure DO NOT open the upper
shock cap.

Since I came from the previous electric XRAY driver camp, I've always used the *old* method from the first generation of the XRAY adjustable shocks. Most drivers don't have any problem with the new shock bleeding process. However, those that do end up using the old process below. I've updated it a little to account for the ease of bleeding with the newer shock bodies:

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12. Bottom end cap bleeding

• For adjustable pistons, make sure all four piston holes are open
• Turn the shock upside down
• Push the piston in as far as it will go (the pressure may not let it go in that far) and hold it there for two seconds
• Let the piston rebound by itself all the way out. For adjustable pistons, you may need to twist the rod a little for the piston tab to seat itself into one of the notches in the bottom of the shock body and it will rebound out approximately one more millimeter.
• Let the piston sit for a few minutes to let any remaining air rise up to the bottom of the shock body in preparation for it to be bled out through the rod hole on the bottom of the shock
• Unscrew the end cap, pulling it up off the shock body, and let the oil and any remaining air bubbles bleed out for about 30 seconds. Then push the piston down about halfway and screw back on the end cap.
• Clean the excess oil off the outside of the shock with motor cleaner

13. Place each front or rear shock pair (with all four holes open when using adjustable pistons) on a shock measuring tool, fully compress them and check the rebound damping speed and how far each extends itself to see if they are the same. If you don't have a tool, then just check the rebound of each shock with your eyes. If one shock is faster and/or extends more than the other, perform the following final bleeding process to the faster/longer rebounding shock:

• Turn the tool so both shocks are upside down
• Unscrew the end cap of the faster rebounding shock again and let the oil bleed out for about another 30 seconds
• Screw back on the end cap, test the rebound damping speed again for the pair and repeat the two steps above again until the previously faster/longer rebounding shock has the same amount of rebound as the other shock

14. Clean the excess oil off the outside of the shock with motor cleaner

15. Place a little amount of light oil onto the threads above the aluminum ride height collar and let it soak in. This will keep the spring collars from binding on the shock body threads when adjusting ride height.

yes same here Ty teamgp

When you turn the allum. shocks upside down and take the bottom cap off do you keep the spacers and o-rings where they are or do you take all them out aswell?