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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - Fitted my new Jammin super bores this weekend, pics!!!!

XRAY - Model racing cars

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 17:14:15 
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Hi XRAY,

How much up travel have you got with these shocks on.

Tim


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 17:23:02 
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I'll have to measure that later and let you know.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 17:23:53 
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Cheers Mate


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 17:33:02 
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Not sure why some went with the Kyosho style since they are put together nearly the same as stock shocks. I cant tell you how nice it is having a threaded cap to retain the O-rings now.

My uptravel in the rear allows the tires to touch the wing so they cant go any higher then that. On the front with the chassis pushed to the ground they dont have much more movement upward but arent quite bottomed out either.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 17:41:32 
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I've got a set of Hong Nor super bores coming Thursday Whitey. I'm only trying to find out how much up travel he's got as a mate of mine said he's going for the kyosho one's and XRAY his looks like they are over half way up the shock body with his buggy/truggy at rest. I like to run mine so that there is about 2mm of up travel past the chassis bottom, it gives it a bit more stability after the jumps.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 18:08:32 
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In the rear for sure there is atleast that much and it wouldnt matter since the tire hits the wing any way. The fronts I would say probably not but its hard to tell. I

have to run the upper row of shock tower holes in the front or the shock will bottom out before the chassis. So basically that small difference from the bottom row to the top row of holes on the tower may be 1-2mm and they dont bottom out now so its possible you have 2mm front uptravel after chassis is bottomed out. It was the same on the EC shocks as well so no real change there. In the rear I can run the lower row of holes and the wing is the limiter.

I did use the long plastic rod ends which further limits the uptravel so if you want more use the short rod ends. I personally like the longer rod ends to be the limiting factor or you will be slamming the piston into the bladder.

Good to hear you choose the best set out right now. :lol:

Are yours going on the buggy or truggy and did you be sur eand order those short stand offs?


Last edited by whitey4311 on Tue Jan 08, 2008 18:15:43, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 18:13:28 
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I have a question for you guys:

When building the shocks I really hate having to use wire cutters to hold the shock shaft and fear they will scratch the surface. I was smart enough to take a rat tail type dremel bit and clamp the wire cutters over it as it was running to make a nice smooth half round cut on each side ot the cutters.

When closed it makes a circle and the idea is that the cut outs are smaller then the shock shafts so pressure keeps the shaft from spinning instead of a sharp cutting edge bitting into the shaft. I figure I will polish the edge with some compound on a polish wheel bit to remove any sharp spots.

Though I didnt have any issues building the shock and the shafts arent scrathced at all are there other ways of doing this?

I will buy a replacement set of shafts to have on hand just incase but I figure if it worked the first time I shouldnt have any future problems. The first time threading new rod ends is the worst and the next time I shouldnt have to use as much pressure to hold the shock shafts.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 19:12:52 
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Whitey,

We use one of these a Shock shaft vise



You lads can get them from here http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info.php ... s_id=12790

Tim


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