XRAY - Model racing cars

need help as am in a toss up over which engine to buy for the XB8. I have narrrowed it down to these 1) RB WS7II , 2) RB C5 , 3)OS VZB need opnions regarding the durability, dependability, tuning, power delivery,basically any constructive comments that anyone has on the a/m engines.TIA!!

well the V- is a good motor and has bottom ,mid and top end. its power is smoothe but yet it rips. mine has 4 gal in it and still has great comp. id say my RB s7 is better though. i dont know why but the thing wont die and keeps a tune. sometimes the V just dies for no reason? not a lot just every once and a while. it keeps a pretty good tune as well. i have a top P5 and the thing has way to much bottom and i have tried to calm it down. ive heard the C5 is kinda compared to it. i dont know what it is but the RB's are some of the best IMHO. also you might want to cheak out the CRONO's they are supposed to be great and it is gonna be my next motor.

Im a RB man myself! I have 2 a WS7 and WS7II great motors, easy to tune and run forever. C-5 is just a powerhouse, a little much for racing I think but peeps run them

Hi

I hope you will understand my english

I defintly think you should go for a RB WS7II, It is probably the most rieable engine for now. It´s a little bit more sensitive to tune then a S7II but it has a powerband thats good for any type of track, If you dont race at toplevel the S7II is a very good engine that lacks a bit of bottom power but have a smooth and easy to drive powerband. The C5 engine is hysterical strong with lots of high end power, if you race in US the most tracks are too small and have a lots of jumps so the C5 dont came to its rights there, the C5 is a exellent engine for example The Worlds 2004 track Furulund (Sweden) where a extremely long straith and has many very fast bits on the track where tje C5 can scream out its anger.

But remember if you should go for fuel with 30% nitro or more you must add a 0.1 shim of the top of the engine since all the RB:s are shimsed for 25% nitro at max.

I've never favoured RB anyway, just overpriced imo. I do however run a V-Spec in 1 of my Hyper 7s and it is a superb engine, 7 gallons through it now and it's still chuffing away like it was brand new. But if you wanted an RB it'd be the C5 I chose rather than the WS7 or 2, they just seem more reliable.

I recently got a V-spec but I havent run it in yet. Grahama, you seem to get a lot from your engines, you have any tricks I should know about?

most important thing to do is heat it up to 200 deg before you start it. and the first few times loosen the glow plug up just a little. this motor it tight! i mean tight ive broke in a few and this one is a beast when you first break it in. also use the hot plug-P3. i got a bunch from rc-mushroom cheap-strips of 6 for $25bucks. its way better than paying $7 each at the LHS.

Whats wrong with the BESS style of breaking in an engine?
I agree with the MC59 for most climates and temps. With the high humidity here in VAbeach it can make it hard to set a tune.

Damn, i was planning on using the Bess method, what method do you use? Atleast then I know im using a method which gets a long runtime from my engine.

well just a little note of how i do all my motors and they have all lasted- let it idle for 1/2 tank,then set it down(on a smoothe surface) and get it to run at 1/4 throttle w/ short bursts (to clean it out)in a circle or figure 8 for 3 tanks, then run it at 1/2 throttle for 4 tanks (leaning it just a bit to get it to run better) w/short but longer bursts-then it is broke in pretty much. after that you can lean it out to run crisp and smoothe. note keep the temps above 200deg but not over 250 during break in.
im not saying this is the best method but it works for me and i never change a conrod until the 5 gal mark.

just about what i do too....

cept i let mine cool between tanks at BDC...

ya after the first 3 i let it cool down and then finish the next 4