XRAY - Model racing cars

Do you guys run one
If not do u just unplug the battery from the reciver while not in use???
Is there a better way??

the reason i ask this is ive pulled the wires out from the plastic case once and dont want to do it again

tks
Jay

I dont use a switch either and am just careful and gentle when pulling the plugs apart.

So far I havent had any issues but wont use a switch mainly because for some reason with a Lipo battery the switch doesnt cut power when routed through the regulator. Even if you have a switch you are supposed to unplug the Lipo directly so I never saw the point to using a switch for that reason.

Some say they can fail is the other reason but it sure would be easier to have one and not have to unplug the battery every time.

Next time I may try and find another connector to put between the wire so that its the one being pulled apart all the time and not the actual battery plug.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... s_id/14569

something like this but it would be a pain to have to deal with an extra 2 of these since you will need one for the battery and one for the regulator. Thats another 12 inch of wire to try and hide but so far I havent had an issue with the wires pulling out of the housing so I am not motivated to do this.

Hi guys,

Is there any chance I could see a pic of your KO switch mounted?

Cheers,
Euan

The KO switch although a very reliable switch in operation found it drew power in the off mode causing battery to go flat, as luck would go normally in last round of qualifying even when it was charged first thing. Also if Rx pack was low it would just switch off giving you a runaway. Tried a couple all were the same & many top uk drivers all experienced same problems.
Have tried deans connectors they work but now just use std switches & rubber dirt covers been reliable for me, I just replace 6 monthly for peace of mind as they do gradually wear.

Bren

I use a basic switch with a rubber cover. No issues here over the last 11 gallons (buggy and truggy)

i use a standand switch with rubber cover . one thing i do is cable tie the battery lead and switch lead together

I think that this kopropo is better to on road cars. For off road i prefer standart sanva or futaba with rubber cover

hi Bren

the instructions with the KO switch tell you that when switched off there is a slight current drain & also tell you that if the light flashes when you turn the switch on that means the RX pack is getting low on voltage. so its a battery checker as well as a switch

personaly i give my RX pack a zap with the charger before every run so any current drain is never an issue for me

Can you use the KO switch with a lipo pack and voltage regulator? Has anyone tried it so far?

Rich, heres what I did using a protek lipo batt pack, ko propo switch, and the protek 6volt regulator. it works fine just have to put the voltage reg after the ko propo switch and youll be fine the both the switch and voltage regulator has a warning light for low voltage. but that dont help you unless you can see it and during a race if your battery runs low your out of luck. Thats why I run nomadio react it gives you real time readings on the battery so before and after running I check the voltage...Theres one more thing you have to solder in some jr style connedtors to the battery leads on the kopropo switch as the come with a diiferent style leads and the portek lipo packs wont fit.

Hey guys, I'm running Lipo and regulator in my XT8 as well.

Since last year at Motorama in PA, I've been running a deans plug flush mounted to the top of the radio box. I basically took and soldered the regulator lead to the deans plug. If you remove the switch plate (plastic insert for the switch) the deans plug fits nicely in the rectangular hole for the switch.

Before installing the dean's plug...Take a dremel and cut slits in both sides of the plug. Take the little silver screws that are used to mount the switch plate and put waher's on both of them and use the washer's edge to hold the deans plug neatly in the rectangular square.

So, in other words.....after slitting both sides of the deans plug and cut away one corner for the battery lead that connects to the other side of the deans plug which will stay on the outside of the radio box (and connects to the reciever....put the plug into the hole on the reciever box where the switch would have been installed. slide two washer's in the slits you cut on the deans plug and set the deans plug down in the radio box hole. Alter the slits you cut so that the washers line up with those two little mounting holes. Once you get it to line up and your reciever lead fits through as well.....Install the small silver screws to old everything in place. You can use some Shoe Goe to seal the area, but it should be a very tight fit. You will also need a deans plug setup on your charge lead to plug into the deans mounted with the washers.

This setup has been flawless for a full year of racing.

I will try and post some pictures up soon. My race buddy came up with this idea and cut a perfect hole in his radio box, then used 30min appoxy to flush mount the deans connector. It worked well for some time. I had this setup on my Jammin. But after about 5 months....my buggy appoxy got brittle and broke loose. I decided a screw/washer setup would be much more sturdy.

RC Driver was suppose to add this to thier tech tip section of thier magazine....One of the editors took pictures of it at Motorama and gave my buddy a free subscription for the explanation on how to do it.