XRAY - Model racing cars

cool thanks.

I dont make 1 adjustment at a time since its a pain to do at the track but I have been pretty good at studying after each race to decide what needs to change then trying it out.

I am going to go back to the heavier diffs and see how that does again. 775 should lock it in pretty good and motivate me to stay on throttle more often to hopefully break my 27 lap record in 20 minutes. The better guys are getting 29-32 laps in the same time but I never see them off throttle as much as me so I need to step it up and have been pushing the car harder then at first and I think I need to go back to the heavy diffs. My first race I couldnt do the 755 diffs but now that I am trying to push it I am seeing these issues so it may be time to better match my better driving skills.

The light diffs are great for a slow paced all throttle and no brake driving style but now that I find myself hititng the throttle the rear end will spin out both on and off throttle so I think you guys are right about the diff oils.

Also I have been thinking about it and having the thicker CD oil forces a more AWD effect and the rear being on 3k is very possibly too light for this and likely the reason its breaking loose so much.

SO I will do a couple little changes with camber and shock angles then try different diff oils and see how it goes.

Any tips on shock angles? I have both front and rear 1 hole from being on the inner most holes. The fronts are on the upper row since I found that the with the lower row the shocks would bottom out before the chassis touched the ground which would be a bad thing. The rears are in the lower row to give a slightly higher ride height but now that I have the mugen springs I may try to put them on the upper row which would drop the rear end a bit. I say this because at the rear I have no preload clips and the arms are still just above level.

Based on what I am seeing on these new proto style front shock towers the shocks are moved inward much more so I was thinking of going to the inner most holes on the front but what about the rear?

From what I understand more laid down will make them softer and I think they are already soft using the mugen grays.

I was thinking that going up in frotn shock oil wt might help resist the loss of rear traction off power but am not sure. Any ideas?

Was thinking of going from 50/45 1.4x4 to 55/50 1.4x4 with muge gray but am not sure if that would be too heavy dampening.

I am lost in the diffs and cant decide what to do. I am up in the air as what to put in the CD and want to keep the 7k to keep the punch I need for all the jumps. Now that I am trying to pusht he car harder I think 775 may be better then the 573 I am using now. I would loose some steering but if stay on power more then it shoudl stay hooked up pretty good. The issue I am having is hitting throttle up to a turn then when I let off it spins out or fish tails into the turn.

One concern I have is that when I hit the throttle the car will spin out if I dont use some control so I wonder if that is due to the 7k CD oil. I see other guys hammer the throttle and the car screams down the straight but if I am not careful it will get out of control and spin out.

I want to go and redo it today so nay help ASAP would be great.

Thanks

If its throttle control....dial some throw out of your throttle EPA or adjust your exponential for a less aggressive throttle curve.

Or 7K rear It is the true answer to this puzzle! I know at least 4 guys who have seen the light.