XRAY - Model racing cars

LSN seems rich but it depends on how long it has been at idle. It shouldnt idle for more then 30 secs and if it does its too lean. My guess is that since you hit the thottle and it dies its flooding and too rich.

To me.....it sounds like your letting it Idle too long and it loads up on fuel.....when you give it throttle it dies. you need to clear it out and then let it idle for about 7-10 seconds.........then give it throttle. if it still dies.....your too rich on the bottom. you need to lean out the bottom end needle.


Hope this helps

Yeah mine will die as well if it idles for 30secs or more so I guess you need to describe what is going on in detail.

It's all in the low end needle in my opinion. But it gets tricky to give advice without seeing it personally. I would ask for help from an experienced racer with godd tuning knowledge.

sounds like the LSN is rich and it loads the motor up, That big shot of fuel then puts the glow plug out. Almost all 28's will load up like crazy if the needles are off the least bit on the rich side. Lean it just a couple ticks and see. (be ready to drop the idle down with the idle screw)

Poor Hulkray just Pm'ed me and misunderstood what I said about heating the engine up. He figured that I meant to heat it so that he "could" start it but the point was to save the life of the engine. Ofcourse that twin 750 motor will turn that motor over but he missed the boat on why you heat the engine.

I hope that this has nothing to do with the issue but I can only assume that the life of that motor will now be much shorter.

I think he will begin to see some issues with the tune and perhaps the power of the motor that cant be pin pointed to the needles from cold starting a new motor. Then again my first ever RC was a Revo and the 3.3 motor is going good and I never heated it up but with my high dollar motors they get treated nicely.

Good luck man.

Best thing you can do Hulk is to get the factory needle settings for your engine and start your tuning from there. There could also be a possibility that you're choking the engine at the lsn adjustment. Also, try adjusting your idle needle to and appropriate setting for your engine but keep in mind that you will need to set it according to how you tune your engine. I would start at 1mm then work my way round there.


If possible have your engine checked to see if you need a new con-rod as whitey mentioned above about the need to preheat a relatively new engine. There might be some stretching and stress points due to the cold starts. It may be the only thing you need to look out for. A Novarossi R7 would be an excellent connecting rod if it fits the Ninja. Good luck. Don't forget to have fun.

Hulk you have a good point and this is why I take what I hear at the track and bring it here for question.

All these people are stuck on the Vspec and I finally got them to admitt that it lasts only 3-4 gallons on avg and they for some reason become cheer leaders to support their choices and dont tell you the unbiased info you need to heat.

I am the only guy at my track still preheating an engine after break in and they all ask me why because they know its not new any more. Time will tell if it pays off on my Werks engine but based on the results I can assure you it will. My engine fires up instantly upon touching the starter box wheel and will sit there and idle with very small blips of the throttle. The other "old timers" fire it up cold and peg the throttle hard to warm it up which kills the motor and its bearings.

I learned alot with my Revos that I had and made all those mistakes you have on them so its just part of the game. You wont do it again I can bet you that so just move forward and get the use out of the engine you have.

PS to check a conrod I am told is more difficult then just looking it over so you would need to know the exact measurement of it new then compare your to that to see if its strethced. This is something I dont want to deal with and why I want an engine that will hopefully last longer then 6 gallons so that I can just move on and get a new one. Replacing all the internals is sometimes pretty close to the cost of a new engine so there is no point.

If you do decide to muck with the engine internals, a good set of digital calipers can be you best friend and save you some dough.

This is true and I have a set of regular ones from Harbor freight that I use for reloading my ammo in my 45's. I have used them a few times on the car but not much.

As far as checking the measurements of the engine internals that would get old quick for me. If a part were in question I guess just changing out the conrod would be easier then constantly checking its length.

This is why I wont buy a $400+ motor because I dont want to rebuild it to get my moneys worth I just want to move on and get another one.

It seems that if this werks motor keeps kicking then I will decide between it and that Max MX5B next time. If I take care of them they should both last but right now that Werks is making me happy.