XRAY - Model racing cars

Cheap screws that strip out?!
The only thing that strips screws is the tool and how tight you make them.

Time for new tools Best screws in any kit I've every built. be careful no to be in a rush building the kit. notice how good the plastic is, you will have popeye forarms after building it. good luck....

J Concepts Jammin V2 here, fits good and sits low. There is a single body mount area in the bed of the body, skip that and rig up both mounts in the back. If you use the single it will crack out pretty fast.

Once you paint up a serious multi color paint scheme on it, it gets pretty heavy, so keep that in mind. Back to the stock body or a .040 thick for me.

Does the stock XT8 body include those snazzy stickers if purchased separately?

I thought I had one working loose in the front again, but it was my eyes playing tricks. One thing I did do when I flat spotted the pins is replace the kit set screws with some Tony's screws replacement's. they have more of a point to them so that they dig into the pin better. Once you bear down on the pin it makes a full circle mark with a sharp indentation effectively locking the pin in place.

(Mkay, now my head is sweating with all those big words that I dont understand, I feel for ya Richmond.)

LoL @ Keith! I did the CVD mod but used the stock pins. I just went as far down as I could with the set screw and applied a generous amount of blue thread lock.

seriously fellas, get the GMK CVD Condoms...you will NOT lose one again..it may well come loose, but it cannot get out and will stay in place

lots of red loctite! put a tiny drop in the ends of the holes where the pin goes in too.. not too much or it will get into the centre and bind things up... let it harden completely before running them. also, instead of using normal heatshrink, get mining spec dual wall heatshrink... Its about 3x as thick, adhesive lined, and strong as... when the hpi hellfire came out, my friend bought one, and every pin in the thing came out just about every time he drove it.. the dual wall stuff held up and stayed on for the 6 months he owned it before he got rid of it.

There isn't much room on the steering block which is also an issue. I'll look at grinding a flat spot on the pins this week.

I put the tinyest dot of redloc on the setscrew. I got a blob on the barrel of another model years ago and it galled everything. those pins rotate in the outdrive a bit as it swings around, thats part of the universal action to it. so I would be hesitant to apply any there.

I agree with Keith, the tiniest drop on the swivel surface area of the CVD can lock up. How do I know? Cuz I did it too...not so long ago as a matter of fact!

I ended up wasting an hour trying to get it out and smooth it back up. If anything else, put a tiny drop on the opposite side if where the grub screw goes to. Seriously though, I wish Xray just made those darn universals. At this point I don't care about the price. I already know what and how much this hobby costs. Heck I gave up counting my yearly expenses. I know I'm in too deep waters to get out alive.

Just give us what we ask for already (universals type joint) I swear we won't even blink when we see the price.

I don't know what you guys are doing, but I just dremeled a tiny flat spot on all of my pins, cleaned them with motor spray, then used blue loctite on them. I let them set for about 2 days though, but after 2 45 Amains plus a few hours of practice those pins haven't budged.