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I have all the bushing inserts at zero now caster still set at 20. I will back the droop screws out later and see if I have gained more droop but I doubt it. This weekend at the race I purchased another pair of front EC arms I am going to modify the stockers around were the caster block sits and see if I can achieve the max droop (arms touching chassis) but I didnt want to attempt this untill I had a spare set of arms.
Racing the car this weekend was very fun. I got to the track Friday and got it dailed in where it felt very nuetral and good everywhere on the track. I found using less kick-up gave me a little more steering and by the end of the day I had set all my inserts at zero an excellent starting set-up and where I will be working from this season. I made some tire and set-up changes on Saturday during qualifying but every change while good for what I wanted usually shown a negative effect elsewhere on ther track causing me to switch back to the basics.
For a starting set-up I am using 5k,7k,3k Mugen gray springs 1.3x4 front and 1.4x4 rear with 500cps (kyosho) oil shock position middle hole in arm upper row 1 out from the inner most hole front and rear rear shocks lengthened to 129mm end to end (about 1mm thread showing) all inserts at zero and caster 1 dot down (20 degrees) this set-up felt very nuetral it did everything pretty well and had no weak points
When I get the front to droop more I will then try the lower row in the rear shock tower and shorten my rear shocks back to stock and use the droop screws but the settings above gave me just a hair more rear droop than front and I feel cars jump better with near the same droop front and back.
In this weekends race I qualified 5th but finished 12th due to failed clutch bell bearings and stripping the plastic Xray servo horn. I felt that had I not had these problems I could have finished higher than I had qualified.
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