XRAY - Model racing cars

Try your box with 12V lead acid battery. I have used that same LRP box for one full season now without problems. Fired up new tight engines without much of a problem. You must pay some attention putting the aligners (or whatever those small things that position your chassis with are called). Myself I only use the front ones so that you put the car on the box, slide it as far front as possible and broom. Fits quite nice actually, but you must hold the rear a bit on its place or the rubber will 'kick' the car aside.

And get rid of that RX ON-OFF switch. You're asking for trouble with that thing unprotected. Worst case scenario is that it jams / shortcuts or gets hit into OFF and adios precious Xray. For example with 2 servo cable extensions you can make quite a solid switch and position it somewhere you like. I suggest the radio box cover. That place remains quite dry even in worse weather conditions.

Here's my version:

Hi there people, thanks for the welcome and advice, let me try and respond to some of your questions points etc.

I will start with the replies in chronological order, oldest first:

winkje: Everything about it seems to point towards TQ as far as i can see but you would know better than I. Is there a way I can tell, I will be most disappointed if it isnt really a TQ, i bought it on the understanding that it was.

I don't know what accus are but i assume you mean battery packs, the starter batt pack is pretty worn physically, and i agree that it may need replacing, the 2 packs in the starter however are brand new that i purchased myself, 3700mAh 7.2V and i charged em for 6 hours each at 0.5A, still, only lasted for a few starts, and got hot in the process.

Rebuilding the kit is something i definately plan to do, i really just want to have a little drive of it first, before i strip it down, because it will take me a while to put it back together, i'm a perfectionist and clean freak, everything will have to be polished to a shine and anything slightly damaged or worn will have to be replaced (which means waiting on delivery too before i can complete)

And about the fun, i took it out in my road today, and i was nearly crying with joy, it was amazing, i can't believe the traction and speed, i was heading towards a truck (real one) a little faster than i should have been, so it wasnt goin to stop, i decided to turn it fast as poss and apply the brakes a little, unfortunately the traction (and my poor steering) meant it wasnt going to go, so it flipped about 10 times and bounced straight into the door of the truck (oops) car works perfect, just broke the antenna tube and damaged the guys door (oops).



Sami L: I might have to do that with the lead acid, these batts just don't seem to be cutting it, they last for about 2-3 minutes continuous runing (obviously i don't run it like that) the problem i think is the wheel, the wheel is worn down by about 1-2mm on the side where it hits the flywheel, and plus a peg missing messes up alignment, so i have to bend the chassis by pressing on the fuel tank for it to make contact. Although i'm sure the wheel is hitting the chassi and getting torn up, is the hole/wheelsize correct on those LRP's?

About the switch, no need to tell me about that hehe, I'm an electronic engineering student, and it will be getting replaced with something water tight, although i wont have a connector i have to plug/unplug, i'm a perfectionist and that doesn't count as perfect to me.

dbarnes: First, I need something to get addicted to, since i don't do drugs or drink, and since addiction of some sort if like a fashion today So why not let it be RC.

About the box, I could really do with a new wheel and a replacement peg, if anyone could help me out with that or give me info i'd be grateful.

Track: I'm stil looking for a local track, i know there is an 2unmanned" track nearby but it's in an estate where i wouldn't feel going let alone taking this with me when i don't have a car to jump in and drive off if "locals" arrive.

Robin: I had heard that it's best to loop the antenna, guess not, i will let it fly. Do you think it's possible that the failsafe is kicking in too early and taking control even when there is still a signal? The lack of range is increadibly annoying. Oh, and the antenna tubes i'm using, i went round 3 villages todya looking for some and couldn't get any, so i went to motor world and "borrowed" the tubes off of their ballons outside. They work perfect apart from when they snap ad they could do with being an inch or 2 longer.


Unfortunately I can't get my car started now as the starter batts are dead and i can't be bothered waiting 12 hours to charge them (i can only chare 1 at a time) but i have ordered a charger for them which should arrive monday, a proper charger with Delta Peak and auto charging etc. Can't wait for that.


So, what I think i need is this: Antenna Tubes, Ster Box Wheel, Starter Box Peg, Some body Clips (Mine are missing) an new RX Battery Pack and a glow wrench and i need a clue. (because i havn't got one )

If anyone could help me out with those, where to get them or if they have any they could sell/post to me, i'm working on a tight budget now

Oh, and my TX batteries are brand new, I bought 8 x 2700mAh AA NiMh cells. All cells/batteries being used in this car or otherwise are NiMh.

Please keep the info coming, I got a lot to learn. Thanks

The box works like a charm when aligned correctly. You might wanna buy new rubber for the box. And if you want to make the alignment easy. Take out the front and rear end+engine of your car and position the box with just the chassis or something. If the rubber is worn out you're going to have to bend the chassis and that ain't right.

And about the un-plug thingy, yeah ofcourse there could be some pro switch. But in my opinion this setup is bulletproof, but not for submarine use. Yesterday I saw OS Speed jump from tracksidepipe, full flip over the fence, ran under another fence, ran through a huge parkinglot without hitting any obstacles and flew into some downhill. The owner wasn't too happy, good show thou and one dead engine. Good reminder how important solid electronics are.
Friend had annoying problem with switch some time ago. In a big double jump somebody landed on his car and turned the switch off. Good luck he had throttle on neutral and worst harm was the position in that run. Myself I replace my wire extensions every once in a while, cos they are cheap and they wear slightly. And with this slimline connector-box It's as close to perfection as possible (gotta admit that feature in myself) they stay together and the connectors can't move much and slowly break the wires. Too heavy connectors can do that if wire is too thin. Another friend jumped over another fence in another town because of this problem. He's been a futaba connector user every since. In semi and a-final he puts a piece of ducktape over the connectors so they stay together and are quite waterproof.

Well, beingan Electronic Engineering student i have no shortage of equipment and knowledge, i can get hold of some waterproof switched and easily mod the plate to take it.

My main concerns for the time being (since i wont be running the car on a track or in the wet yet) is the range, i lose range (or atleast what i mean to say is my failsafe kicks in at about 15 metres)

The Radio gear could use a update. Probably your single biggest improvement could be made there, as far as range and possible gliching is concerned. The AM band is very weak and accepts just about any signal. Plus you want that feeling of security and control if there are little ones around. these buggys can get up to some very fast speeds in a blink of an eye.

You mentioned needing a glow wrench, this is a very good one.
http://www.shopatron.com/product/produc ... 5182.0.0.0

been using that one for all the years I have been messing with RC models.

Yeh, I'm quite aware the Radio sucks, hance my comment in first post, i'm going to have to hold out on that for the time being because to cut a long story short, i wasnt planning on buying the car yet as i couldn't afford it but was forced to buy it early or miss the opportunity. So for the time being i cna't afford any major upgrades.

And now that I'm checking my own starter box, just remove the engine and tank and then align the rubberwheel into the chassis hole as good as possible, position the pegs and you're good2go if the rubber is not too worn.