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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - XRAY M18T General Forum

XRAY - Model racing cars

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 18:31:50 
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 23:23:04 
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hey jeff try using the HPI steel pinions, they mesh a bit better :?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 17:57:32 
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what are all the fuzz about, have read the 6 pages here and can´t see what everybody are complaning about? after having been in to this hobby in more than 12 years driving both off and on road I know when I see a prof car/truck. my only complain asfor the m18t is the shocks. after 30-40 laps on an indoor carpet track the oil have come out of the rear shocks and air have gotten in. spend 4 hours stright driving yesterday with out breaking anything.
remember when you break things it´s probaly because that you try to drive faster than your skill allows you . I was told by some ot the other m18t drivers that with the truk in stock config I would probaly break the axels and the upper front arm. I came close to thew track record and that was with only the xray 300 motor, most the others used mambas or graupner 300.

My rating of the m18t kit is 9/10

the only thing I think is pulling it down is the shocks.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 17:36:16 
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 04:23:40 
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are the steel pinions out yet? 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 22:06:28 
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YEAH!!! steel pinions would be great. esp with these brushless setups.

and you can or can not fit the steel spur from the gas trucks on the m18t??


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 30, 2006 07:41:34 
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I have a Q for you at Xray:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When ,or will it be able to buy some upper suspensionarms that will give Camber?

rear and front upper arms
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Since i havent got a answer on my erlier posted Q il take it here,and can anwser it my self, so it is a tip for others..

Old Q´s:


1:OneWay DIff for M18T/MT is that a recomend for Carpet/foamsTires?

2:does Xray have shims for the alu hex converisons NT200 foamTires,or is this something ya have solve on your own? this is the second Truck, with a to big gap(not much,but little to much)when ya mount Hexes on Alu CVD from Xray. any tip?

Anwser for number2: Yes there is, i recomend AE RC18T diffshims, ONE or maybe 2 inside the bearing that the CVD is sticked to...


Thomas Pettersson

/Sweden


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 08:00:24 
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Thank you Mini, i have on Q more..is there a Problem for Xray to produce parts or so? In sweden the 1:10 NT HEX are out, since month, so i went to Holand,the border, and ordred some there..after 3 weeks il mail, and get a Anwser,that they have som problems, and it is so for all dealers

Can someone tell me, when will thoose HEX be back in stock @ LHS

this was mid November...


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 31, 2006 09:00:22 
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Best to contact for that.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 01:10:47 
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 Post subject: About the Tools
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 19:09:39 
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 03:30:07 
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All the screws in my M18MT kit were crosshead screws so the screwdriver that came in the box was fantastic.

gh.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 14:25:12 
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Are ya sure that you do not have any,any Pozidrive screws in your kit?..ex the one for the steerhubs and rear hubs are usualy pozidrive screws, the one to atache the diff house to the chasi are regular Philips,same as the screwdriver.i.othervise Xray ship diff screws and i do not think so.

/Thomas P


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2007 17:59:39 
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The M18T is certainly not built to the quality I expected from X-ray. I run an X-ray T2 in 1/10 scale and thought it would be fun to try an X-ray Micro truck for a change on our carpet track.

Composite drive shafts pop apart at the ball joint at the slightest knock. I tried reinforcing the joint with heat shrink tubing, as was suggested somewhere, but that was clumsy, now have had to purchase after market CVJ aluminium drive shafts & axles in order to keep running for a 5 minute heat.

Composite Steering blocks with tiny screws (not king pins) through composite pivot balls soon strip the thread in the steering block. Why O why X-ray didn't use a beefier C-hub configuration for the steering block mounting like the 1/10 scale cars. Anyway, have now had to purchase after market aluminium steering blocks.

Composite pivot balls. Have had to replace with metal pivot balls because the composite ones deform.

Has anyone successfully managed to fix the steering block bolts in place securely enough to stop them undoing during a race, without them being too tight and causing stiff steering which severely restricts servo movement.

The car is competitive, but it is such a job to finish a heat without a problem.


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 Post subject: Re: About the Tools
PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 08:25:38 
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