XRAY - Model racing cars

[quote="nitroracer"]Well first of all you should start with the shortest wheelbase in the front and the back and on out on the hubs. quote]

What do you mean when you say "and on out on the hubs"

Sorry it was a typo. I meant to say "and out on the hubs". You can shorten the wheelbase at the inner rear arms and on the outer part of the rear arms at the hubs as well.

Oh and welcome to the XB8 family. You'll find this forum is very helpful. I'm sure others will be able to suggest something too for you.

Thanks for the clarification

Also keep in mind that the engine and pipe makes a difference. For small tracks I would recomend a 3 port Novaorssi or RB and also the famous Novarossi P5X.

I already have a p5X to go in it. I just want to start with a good setup that will get in somewhere in the ball park. Anymore suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks

Ok guys, Saturday night I went out to the track. The car was VERY loose on power. I was running 553 in the diffs and 2* on the anti squat. Rear toe was 3* All the other info is posted on the setup sheet link below. Today, I changed the center diff to 3K and the antio squat to 4*. Then, the rear was still loose so I changed the rear diff to 1K. The car picked up a push so I took the front sway bar off.

The car is still alittle loose in the rear on power and it has a slight push on a sweeping turn. Any suggestions to get this thing dialed in a little closer. Here is the link to my current setup.

335 is the magic number. Set your anit-squat to 2. Wheelbase to 1 shim. The 5 in the rear will give you that push while the 3 in the fron will guide you easily into the corner. 3 in the center lessens your initial power to diff ratio making you drive smoother.

Got a guestion about the wheel base shim. Are you talking about the shim in the rear hub carriers? Add 1 in the front and 1 in the rear?
Thanks

You didn't try the 335 diffs recommended earlier? I'm telling you it is like a night and day difference. Many people on this forum have tried 335 and love it. Taking the front sway bar off will make it worse if you are too loose. Put the sway bar back on and run 335 with your current set up and you should notice a big difference. Get the diffs right first and then you can tune from there.

I had read so info that people were running 555 or 553 on the forum, thats why I tried it out first. But, I am willing and open for ANY suggestions to make the car better. So everyone, keep on giving me suggestions so I can try. I will be going back to the track next weekend.
Thanks

your caster in front should be the other way around too
1 or 2 dots turned to above, not to below

this, and no front bar gives to much steering and rear slide

I notice also you have 2° of hub toe-in AND 3° inboard = 5°
that is to much above 3,5° rear wants to kick out
should be 2° at the hub and 1-1,5° inboard

TQ diff oil should best be in the order 1-2-3 grades
against 3-2-1/2-3-1 for other makes of buggys
=
5000-7000-10000
3500-5000-7000
3000-3000-5000
5000-4000-5000

the rear oil being always the highest grade oil

but I know some drivers that drive
3000/3000/1000 or 5000/5000/2000

I don't have the alu rear hubs...
but there should be a manual with them

you can set them up to all sides with inserts I think

do you even know what degree you're on then ?

O dont have the aluminum hubs either. I will check when I get home to see if the rear hubs have inserts. I dont know beceause I bought the car used.