XRAY - Model racing cars

Thanks Rugzilla, I will most likely stick with the stock motor classes until I get use to running touring cars. The bodies is there a big difference between the Mazda6 and the Stratus downforce and such or is it more of personal preference?? I have a Porsche 956 body that I got for a micro rs4 but never picked up a low profile Rx for it to make the body fit. so I was going to start with that one unless it is illegal for the class. With the graphite drive shaft I have read that some people had problems with the shaft cracking, have you had this problem or do you think it was more of bad materials/batch? Thanks again.

BULL!

with most of the hopups listed to make it easier.


The 2.5 rear toe-in blocks ##383220 in the rear would be a good choice. If your a bit more technical, then go for the completely adjustable ones #383300.

Depending on your driving style and the track size, you might look at the 6 degree hardened caster arms #382107 for the front.

If its a carpet track, then you might want to pick up a few different compounds of the xray foams, (see top link).

Oh rugzilla, the composite ball diffs hold up great with high powered motors.

I still have my original hand made graphite shaft and one I made for my m18t. No cracks with brushless and lipo, though initially i did seal the ends with CA.

I've never had a drive shaft crack. I know some people had issues with some which were hollowed. Hollowed could be really good for stock 180 to decrease rotational mass - but no supply from stores - unless you get some for kite flying and shortened up yourself.

I couldn't see loads of difference between the stratus and Mazda which would make one superior to the other. I just don't like the two bumps on the hood of the stratus....

That's good about the composite ball diff mini. They are really free and light (back to rotational mass) so I may be switching some out for Pottbellies next week.

Looking forward to this (other then waking up at 2:30am in the morning for the drive down...)

Indeed a carbon hollof shaft will work fine with 180 motors but I never did see a difference with the standard aluminium shaft. Now I have a 4mm aluminium tube ready to make a shaft.
Lets see if it is lighter and stronger.

Just got the last issue of RC Car Action, this one was all about the minis and one of the project mods was a M18 the majority of it was standard stuff but the Rx they were using was from a battle robot supplier. they never got a close picture of it but the size was TINY!!! it fit between the LiPo and the battery post.. Also I guess X-ray is releasing a 370 sized motor wonder if a new ESC is on the way too?? Thanks everyone for the info. now I am at the mercy of UPS and the package tracker. my M18 should be here Monday. already got my sandpaper and jewelers files ready for the build..

q tip is the way to go, that way you also don´t dammage your health with the poison ca glue. I always use the qtip, just prime it well b4 starting to apply it to the chassie other wise you end up wiith cotton treads on your chassie

CA was used for emergency seal of wounds in Vietnam. No, Im serious!