XRAY - Model racing cars

I have run 15 tanks and no problems with mine infact we have no snow its just cold so I drove my truck yesterday.Make sure you use threadlock on the screws that hold the metel spurgear on the NT18T mine came loose and all of them were gone.I had to order these screws from xray and it cost me 15.00 dollars.But if I remember right you have the NT18.You will also have to supply some shims, and dont tighten the pilotshaft/nut too tight.I also had to install the optional rear tierods so the engine crank wont hit the stock plastic tierods

Dang!! The saying "wait till X-mas" It was almost next year!!!!

I sent you some photos a few month back on mods i had to do. otherwise, The engine is great! 4 buddies of mine, has had the engine, since sept. And we have run 3 gallon of fuel in them. Their still going strong. The only mishap was a couple glow plug blew from running lean. Other wise we all agree, that it may last another 3 gallons.

We been running the 24t pinion cuz the track we run the 1/8th track. Average tankful is 5-8 minutes. Other wise its doing well.

I never had the opprotunity to see those pics is there a link?

Got my picco today. but for fitting it to the NT18 it seems there need to be:

1. Extra xray shims all the way behind the cone. Threaded part of the crank is so long that the included clip adaptor part runs out of thread before it even reaches the base of the flywheel.

2. Lower engine mounts need to be sanded wider to allow the picco to sit correctly

3. Manifold sanding to clear fins.

Otherwise, mine are the original picco brand with orange cooling head and black crankcase, nice looking

Along with all the engine swaps has anyone thought of tried the NX kit on one for more power or a S&R supercharger?

Put the Picco in and that is all the little NT18T truck can handle.I didnt have to grind the crank on my picco when I used the xray adjustable rear tierods, the metal tierod is thinner than the stock plastic rod,and still my clutch gear aligns pertfect with the spurgear.Or is that only nessesary on the nt18.

First I'd like to thank each and everyone of you for all the great info in this thread as well as the other threads I am new to the NT18 but not so new to nitro cars ( Savage SS, Traxxas Revo). This is my first 1/18 scale car and I am in the last step of assembly and waiting on my Futaba JR to arrive. As most of us do, I immeditely thought of installing a more powerfull engine and it looks like the Ofna P-0 is a good choice. Has anyone done and speed checks? Also this is what fuel is recommended 10% oil, 25% nitro and 65% methanol. Any thoughts on that? Also how is the stock drive train holding up? I am thinking I should beef up the drive train components at the same time. Tower Hobby currently wants $154.00 for the Picco P0-non pull which seems high but I have a $25 coupon thus my cost $129..seems reasonable no? They don't carry any Xray parts though so I need a good source for the drive train parts
Also how are the brakes holding up? Are there any mods to replace the stock pads?
TIA!!
Just one very excited nitro nut !!

Actually, I think Tower has the prices crossed, Non-pull @ $129, pull @$159 should be. Got mine locally @$129 and with shipping. And recieved it next day. I havent tested fuel %ages. Just run 20% with a hotter Turbo glow. With small engine the hotter the better. And been happy with that.
Just have to do a few mods in mounting, but an excellant engine. It is time for inspection on parts wear. It has 2 gallons run on it since the last time. it was checked. Didnt have any reason to disassemble it. Its been great!

Shop around! I'm sure you'll find it cheaper than Tower, like I did.

thanks geezatec, I called Tower and spoke to a lady and asked her to check that their pricing was reversed on the pull $139 non pull $155..after some time on hold she said they would have to get back to me after they checked with Ofna and their supplier...we shall see..Id reaaly like to use the $25 coupon on a $150 order..Id make the rest up in Pactra RC paints

List of parts for mods

Alum. balldiffs #385001 (2)
Frt 1-way diff #385101 (optional)
6deg A-Arm #382106
Alum Sus BlkLt #382252
" " " RT #382262
Adj, Turnbuckle #383300
Alum. Drive shaft #385201 (2 sets)
Nick. Plated Pivot #387541
" " " #387561
" " " #387562

Alum. Sus blks 2 of each if you want installed frt & rear. Same with drive shafts.
Balldiff 2 for frt and rear. Option with 1-way only install 1-way in the frt. 1-way Does cut the life of driveshaft cuz the aggresiveness.
6deg A-Arms agressive cornering.



I that would do you fine. on parts.

GUYS! i would really appreciate your pictures or videos of the steps and installation of your engines i'm sure other agree with me the info is great and pictures would be even better!!!!!!!

I did all the mods for the Picco, lotsa trail and error fitting and in the end the clutch bell gear lined up nicely centered to the spur gear...sweet!

The only specific thing I would add to the mod instructions is stuff some tissue into the exhaust port on the Picco when your grinding down the fins so no metal filings get inside

My onlly question...
On the Picco-the distance from the end shaft where the c-clip is located to the top of the nut is fixed so that when the clutch bell is on there is to much play. About 0.3mm to much play. So I looked and looked for a shim or shim kit that has shims with an ID hole of 4.0mm and an OD diameter of 7.0mm, thickness of 0.3mm or even better assorted thicknesses. Offna does not seem to have one, I have 3 of thier shim kits...nada!
For now I have a shim under the c-clip which is big but the right thickness and should be ok for now, plus I have time since Im waiting on my drive mods..oh yeah and it's like 18 degrees outside!!
4.0mm ID x 7.0mm OD shims are what I am looking for, 0.1mm-0.3mm thick