XRAY - Model racing cars

hey guys, built my nt18t a while back and though the brakes works, i feel they arent as strong as they could be...i could be wrong but i think i might have used the wrong side on the ferodo brake pads, got a new set today and want to make sure i get it right this time, or if it was right for peace of mind

so my question is which side makes contact with the metal to slow it down?

glossy side, or the side that feels more like cardboard

any help would be aprrecicate [/img]

The brakes work pretty poorly to start with, so afaik it doesn't really matter heh. You can adjust the amount of fuel tube you use on the brakes to really really close them up ultra tight - its the only way i can get mine to do anything. Also make sure your brake alignment is correct, if they are not exactly as in the manual they work even worse.

Steel brake pads & ferodo pads. Steel pads rough them up b4 glueing the ferodo on. You want the dull side of the ferode to face the brake disc..

Fuel hose that Mark said is correct. Another thing is The knurled nut on the brake linkage. It is screwed onto the pivot onto the Throttle/brake horn. You have maybe 3mm of thread left. Just use the Knurled nut to fine tune your linkage by turning nut. NT18T its aluminum, NT18 its plastic

Good luck!!

I don´t know if this will help, but her goes !

3 weeks ago I was on the track and was having the same trouble you have. my brakes felt like they was worn down. I took them apart and saw that the brake disk had made a grove in the fredo. put them together again, and addes some 2mm more fuel hose.this was my last pice of fuel hose, and after testing the brakes I found the hose that I had just installed to be split so it fell off. I couldent find the other pice the I had taken off, and I was the only one who was on the track that day. So I strarted to go thrugm my tools and spare part to find another pice, but with no luck. So I opened my magic box( the box with all the small parts, gathered from my 12 years of racing rc cars) and came across a littel spring almost the same size, and lenght as the fueltube I use on the brake link, I thought it was worth a try,so I installed it. took the car on to the track and slammed the brake at the end at the stright as I was use to. the car locked all wheels in an instance and I had way to much brake, but kept driving after a few laps, testing how the brake reacted I found it to be WAY more easy to apply just the right amount of brake and not on/off braking as I use to, now I could controll the brake pressur much more accurate than I have ever b4 coud. now after 3 weeks, I have been able to shave off almost 2.7 sec on the avrage laptime because of the much more control of the brake pressure and my modification have been used by almost all the other nt drivers with the same result.
I have eaven tryed it on my serpent 710 and have also gotten the same result there. try it and you will be amazed how easy it now will be to apply just the right ammount og brake you need.

/Kenn

Would you be able to get us a picture of how you installed it Kenn?

I´ll post some pictures to night when I get home. are at work right now

I'm kinda curious also, kenn. Post a photo of what was done to NT & 710.

Id love to see a pic as well. Im not so sure I have my brakes correct now LOL

Just a reminder for that pic

there are 2 new pictures of the brake on my gallery.

[url]http://www.rcgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=11031

try it out it works much better than the fuel tube[/url]

I have been using this setup almost all season, and yes it´s very hard on the brakes have gone thrug 2 sets of pads.