XRAY - Model racing cars

Hello, i race 2 classes, one modified (i use my brushless system) and other 19 turn mod. The wires have come off the terminals on my V2 endbell. how do you solder them back on? It seems impossible. im thinking of going back to the previous endbell design with the rectangular brushes as they are easier to solder and maintain. But before i do, is there any advantage for using the V2 endbell design, apart from slightly cooler running? All help appreciated, thanks in advance, Callum.

Hi,

I think that problem is not in the motor but in the armature. It looks like that you drive in hot conditions and wrong armature can cause that wires come off. I had same problem on one race and you can solve it also with soldering brushes wires on speedo wires and not on the motor. I hope you understand what I mean

ive just done what you said, and the wires are on solid, cheers! would there be the problem of the wires pulling the brushes from the comm though?

Ok, i admit, i am absoloutly RUBBISH! at soldering...they were on solid, and just came off...and i can't solder them back on...

In dusty/dirty environments, I prefer the V2 for the simple fact that it protects the comm from flying bits pretty good.

Good point well made, i must say, but i'm most probably going to get the standard endbell, purely on the fact that it is easier to solder lol

Something else you could try would be the Checkpoint motors. I am in no way trying to advertise for them, but they have the endurance of the V2 style, with the tabs of the regular style. Just a suggestion.

Thats fantastic, i will definately buy one, cheers . Do they have a website?

I was in the same boat as you. I liked the V2 because of the power and endurance, but was having a problem with keeping wires on.

Its the one design fault with the V2 design. Thanks for the help and for giving me the website

I think it could be that you might not be using a hot enough soldering iron. In my experience, you need to use at least an 80W iron when soldering to a V2 endbell.

Also, try to solder the wires from the speed control on the opposite side of the brush hood to the brush shunt that way you can avoid having to de-solder the motor wires when it comes time to change brushes. I race with a Peak Dynasty 19t V2 and have never had the wires come off, even on a 30+ degree C day here in Aus. I don't imagine North Wales would get that hot!

Don't give up on the V2.

i use an iron with a big tip and that is also 80watts and i haven't had any problems i use to have a 60 watt iron but it did not have enough heat to properly soder the wires on the motor

yes I too have problems with soldering the wires on the V2, I use a 100W iron and still it doesn't melt the solder. (Brand new too) Just changed back to A Peak Dynasty V2 after a Vega. Only needed a 30W iron for the Vega. Good quality solder is the key for the V2 and a Iron. I personally like the V2 design over the standard design. Sounds better

also when it comes to soldering a bigger tip on a hot iron is better that a small tip when soldering the motor wires on a v2, because a bigger tip iron will hold the heat longer then a smaller tip.

a soldering gun that is a 100 + watts is no good because the tip is not big enough to hold the heat in to soder the motor.

in a nutshell a smaller tip dissipates heat allot faster then a big tip.

The key is in the tip you use in the soldering iron. It is not just the number of watts that determines how hot the tip becomes.

For V2 endbells you need a hot tip because the V2 endbell is very good at dissipating heat. This is on of the reasons why the V2 design is so good. If you used a hot enough iron to solder the brushes then it is less likely to unsolder during a run as the V2 endbell generally stays cooler than most competitors. However this advantage is also a disadvantage when it comes to soldering in the first place To give an example, a Weller soldering station comes with a number 7 tip. This is usually good enough for "traditional" endbells. However I now use a number 9 tip (the hottest tip Weller has) to get the heat required to get good solder connections on a V2 endbell.

As to soldering the brushes to the motor wires, this is a trick that has been used at several big events, especially with the old style endbells. If that is not to your liking you can also opt for the budget version of the V2 endbell, however you will lose some of the heat dissipation advantage...

Thanks for the help people . i...i...well, i use plumbing solder and a stupid gas soldering iron that never lights and when it does it doent get near enough the heat i need...it wont even melt little poxy solder...i really need to get some propper solder and a propper soldering iron, wouldnt you say? lol.

I only use V2's and use this soldering station (60 watt) with a big tip.

I've soldered fixed wires to all my endbells with connectors. I know I loose a little power with that. But it's very easy on the track
And never problems wires coming loose.

Thats one mother of a slodering iron innit?!

find out first if your track allows the check point motor.... I know here that motor is not roar legal

Well where i race all motors are legal because its just a fun friday night with different classes, but at the track tamiya championships, BRCA championships, HPI championships and so on race here, but at the propper race meetings they would limit the class of the motor used, but as so far i race friday nights, i don't see a limit to which motor you use, aslong as you go in the correct class, for example 19 turn mod, modified, 19 turn, 27 turn stock, 27 turn mod, or 1/12th scale, if there are enough people with nitro's on the night, they will include a nitro class, but ive gone off nitro now as they are expensive to run and the engines need too much maintanence the way i drive them, which is full competition lol...in other words i tune them to an extent that they overheat and lose all compression and never work again. But back on the subject of motors, i wouldnt see the problem. By the way, what do you think of the XRAY T1R? would you still call it a good touring car or would it be called 'in the past' lol...it's the best car i have apart from my back up fk'05, but i am soon going to buy an XRAY T2 becuse i think its time to upgrade, although i will keep my T1R as it is such a good car and will do as a 2nd back up