XRAY - Model racing cars

Thanks dude i will try what you suggest on my next run and will keep you posted on my finding.

hey guys
does x-ray make chasis weight for the t2 like they did for the t1 chasis?
will the t1 chasis weights fit the t2???
thanks
chris

Hi @ all!

Currently I'm re-new to Xray. Driving the T1 FOC two years ago, then switched to two other brands, and I've now switched back to Xray.

From what I saw the car looks very stable & fast with standard motors (GM Brilliant, 27 Turn) running carpet only. And another reason: at my local track there are nearly 80% or more Xray drivers! So I decided to switch back and within hours, the new T2 was build in a very easy way.

Away from the box I used alu-shocks with 3-hole pistons.

At the weekend I had the first roll-out on both of my usual indoor carpet tracks. I mixed a setup out of 3 points: box-setup, setup from one of the fast local guys and of course I remembered back to something I did in the past so I thougt I have a good setup for the first roll-out.

And it seemed that I'm right, the car war easy to drive, only a little nervous, but very easy. I changed the setup a little and tried some things and the car got better and better. Up to this point, I came to the following setup:




This ist nearly the same setup like the fastest boy on both tracks has on his car. But his car rolls a little better throug turns and for my kind of driving, I need some more steering mid & exit corners. Do you have any suggests on that?

The car feels good and fast, but when it comes down to lap times, I was really shocked. The times were about 2 or 3 tenth slower then with the Tamiya. And overall, I'm just missing nearly a second or even a little more to the best guys. Fastest lap times are about 15,2 / Xray ist at 16,3. On the other track it ist 16.9 / 17,8 / 18.2.

I can tell you there is no prob with ESC, motor ot battery. Used the same tires, no old ones. Tried tires from the faster guys, no changes. Used different additives, different bodies, small setup changes - no effect on the clock.

I'm sure that I'm no 15,2-guy, but when I bought the Xray my hope was around 15.7 or so.


So I hope that someone here on the board can give me a good advise. Would be very nice


Thanks,

Martin


One thing I forgot... had this problem with another brand to: When I drive, from the second run on my tires are squeaking like hell. They still look good after 8 runs, having no rim, but they are squeaking every corner. The car runs smooth, but I'm still the loudest guy on track. Tried different additives, no effect. Tried used, non-squeaking tires from other guys, put them on and they are squeaking loudly. When I had the Tamiya ride, someone told me "squeaking tires make you to loose half a second a lap", but I never got rid of this problem.

I don't have a lot of experience with rubber tire racing. However, I would assume that squeeling tires is a result of a loss of traction where the tires are slightly sliding across the track surface.

With that in mind, as well as the high traction track surface, I'd probably guess that having your rear diff set tight is causing the rear end to drag around the corners and cost you speed. Have you tried setting it to loose or loose/medium?

As for the steering, a one-way inherently forces the car to steer more along the outside front wheels arc when on-power. And the higher the traction, the more the car will want to push out on exit. The best way I've found to combat this (using a one-way with foams on carpet) is to use the on the steering blocks to further reduce the ackermann effect. then turn up your transmitters dual rate/EPA about 5 to 10 points. This will tighten the front outside wheels steering arc and should even out the steering feel between corner entry and exit.

Your car is to tight. You do not want squealing tires.

Sounds like the problem may be with your driving. How fast you go ino a trun the angle of approch. All are factores from .1 sec to 1. sec a lap. If you can practice with your lap times announced that will help. I have noticed that from one lap to another I may think it was the faster but the timer will tell otherwise.

Hello everyone, I read in some Setups that they cut the front or the rear arms. Can you please explain or show us where or what exactly you cut??

thanks

Harris

anyone???

Martin did some cutting of the 'ribs' on the arms to create more grip in low grip low temp situations at the Euro's warm-up.

The rear inside of wheels(rubber tires) are rubbing on the lower shock ball ends during running. The wheels seem to be flexxing into them running on the track. I am running the shocks on the outer holes on the arms. Any way to avoid this?

How is measuring rear diff tightness done? Tight meaning that if you hold the spur and one rear wheel, that you can't turn the other wheel at all? And loose meaning that you can turn the wheel very easy? How loose is loose?

If the wheels are rubbing you basically have two options. Either run the shocks on the inside hole or run more offset on the wheels by using thicker wheel mounting hexes (option part).

If you don't mind some work you can use a piece of sanding paper to sand down the ball cup a little to give the wheel more room.

In my experience this problem is most noticeable with Take Off wheels such as those provided with Take Offs preglued tires. With these wheels I sand down the inside of the wheel itself at a 45° angle.

As to the diff tightness question, have a look at this thread:

Hi guy,
i was new to T2 i have a question about the steering bellcrank when i screw my top deck on it i realize that my steering bell crank was slanted a side is that normal?