XRAY - Model racing cars

Ok,

Getting my XB8-R tonight, getting the Powerplant tomorrow ( Novarossi N528XR )

I'm not gonna ask for the best Break-in procedure, because I dont want this forum to crash the Server.

Which Break-in procedures, have members tried, and yielded the best performance + life ... ?

Cheers ...

Tanks everyone ..

Break it in on a bench with prop, or just follow the manufacturers instructions. If you have no experience, go to your track and ask the fast guys for help.

Ist tank - idle on box
2nd and 3rd tank - drive on flat surface with smooth throttle input. Make sure engine temps reach 190 atleast. Breakin will start at this temp. If you go below this temp, the engine will not get hot enough and will not 'seat' rotating parts properly, and could actuallly lead to premature wear!!
4th to 6th or 7th tank, SLOWLY turn the highspeed needle in at 1/8 turn increments after every tank til you get the desired tune, or til the temps peak at around 260 - 290.

Some engines need a full gallon to free it up to run at full potential. So, most of the time, the more you run, the better it will feel.

That's the way i've done it for years. My engines last forever.
There are SOO many different ways to break in an engine, find a way that you like and go with it.

I even know a few guys that put brand new engines in their car, and tune them and run them, with no break in. The funny thing, the engines ran really well, i was kinda surprised. On the straightways, i waited for the dreaded 'TINK' or 'POP', but it never happened.


Like i said, you'll get 20 guys give you 20 different ways to do it. I think the way i do it is common, and it works!!

with 180C you would ruin your engine quite fast... So its F.

Amazing, I think ALL of you are leaving out steps. Any of these break-in instructions work except that they all ruin your engine as fast as any other. Engines should be broke in at operating temperature, but the most important thing is to GET the engine close to operating temperature before it turns over.

Get a heat gun and make sure the engine reaches 180F before you ever attempt to turn it over, by hand or box. Then, follow whatever break-in procedure you want keeping the engine within operating temp, usually 190-230. Upper range (230) being race temp, lower range (190) being practice temps. I pick these numbers as they apply to most of the good competition motors out there, especially my P7R. However, different motors have different temps and in reality it isn't a good way to tell if the motor is tuned well or not.

I've heard lots of people say they can't afford a heat gun ($28.00)...yet they have a $600 engine...seems as though someones priorities are out of whack! 65% of the engine wear comes from starting them cold (the colder the worse it is). I heat my engines before every race. As a note, I carry an old O.S. CV .12 in my box as a backup for my gas-truck or extremely slick tracks...it's got over 20 gallons on it runs just a tad warm (250).

Ok, the topic is getting a little heated, I didn't want that to happen ...

Anyway, few more questions.

One Guy metioned a prop is just something that will keep the throttle in place. I thought it was a actual prop from a plane, so it will load up the internals ...

I have also, heard that bringing the engine to operating temp, imeddiately is a good thing .... !!

So my next question relates to the Nitro content in the fuel.

Why are some people saying that
A) use a low content nitro fuel (e.g. 10%) then work your way up, after the engine has been broken in. Dont use a high content fuel for break-in, your engine wont last ...
others say
B) A is old school, use a higher content, this will get the engine up to operating temp ASAP.

Whats the go with the fuel content, should I be using method A) or B), and does it really matter which method I use. ????

PS: I like the prop method, but my engine, can only be started from a Starter Box, If I bolt it to a bench, how am I suppose to start it ??

Using a prop, all you need is something to hold the throttle at one point, not necessarily a servo...

I would use the fuel you plan to race with so you will be using the same fuel throughout the engines life.

When using a prop, you will need to buy an airplane starter which is just a big 12V motor with a rubber cylinder on the end that would fit around the spinner on the end of a prop.