XRAY - Model racing cars

I just finished building mine ...the hitec 81 or 85 mg's work fine as long as you're not running a helios in high speed response mode, otherwise JR DS368 digital micro servos will work in AHRS mode.

Kit went together real easy, just follow the instrucions ...here's pics of my little girl:

hey harsh guy. question for u since u put yurs together. the front and rear dif is it the ball dif setup with the little metal balls? or is it like the original with the gears because a guy told me it was comming with a ball dif and not the upgrade ball dif but a cheaper one with a plastic main gear etc.. curious cuz in some nt18 pics on team xray.com it shows the gear dif. and for the m18T truck is shows the ball dif. thanks for any info.

pictures below shows what i mean. the ball dif suposed to come with the n18T and the reg gear on n18 but this guy said on the box it said it came with factory ball difs for the kit taht came with full electronics etc...


and the ball difs for the n18t

NT18 comes with spider gear diff as shown in picture #1.

NT18T comes with adjustable ball diff as shown in picture #2.

It is also clearly explained and shown in the presentation pages of both cars.

You can anytime upgrade the NT18 and use the ball diff or even the alu ball diff.

OK ..here's some pics, sorry about the gingerbread graphics, had to use MS paint on the downstairs computer, wife's asleep upstairs and she's remove my family jewels if I woke her up to edit pics to post

Anyhow on the 1st pic you'll see the top cell sticks out just ever so much to not allow the curve of the body to sit correctly, the bottom picture show how much the wiring on the pack and the on/off switch stick out not allowing the bottom of the body to sit correctly. Everytyhing is so "tight and precise" on this little beast!!

hey,
nice car.
i have just built mine last night, and just wondering does the diffs needs any sort of oil or lub?
coz in the instruction manual, i don't think it didn't say to put any in, also no oil or lub were in the kit!!!

also, is there another way to get the foam tires off easily? or do you just have to force it out?

also, any option parts available yet?

thanks!

OK, so I decided to just build a 5 cell pack so I could configure it exactly how I want it. The second row of cells is offset a bit in order to clear the body with no issues and the top cell is offset in order to allow plenty of room for the throttle to open up. I'm also going to rewire everything and use an inline microswith on the negative wire. Here's the built pack from various angles:

harshguy,

I ordered a pack similar to yours but the 5th cell is sitting right in between the 2 cells on the second row (not offset like yours). I have not recevd it yet. Is the throttle linkage gonna hit my 5th cell or will it just be close?

Also,

Why dont we turn the throttle servo around - shortend the rods and do away with any issues of the throttle rod hitting the body.

throttle rod only needs a small amount of travel to get to WOT.

Comments.

Yea from what I can tell, having the top cell centered will cause the throttle body to hit that top cell ....humm interesting idea on the throttle linkage!!

Why using AAA cels ?

There are smaller cells with lower capacity, because the small servo's I believe you will have plenty of runtime.

harshguy. Thanks. Ijust took some rough measurements.

Each AAA is approx 9.75mm high X 2 rows = 19.50mm
Add the 5th cell on top and it will drop slightly into the groove of the 2nd row, so I estimate its heighth to be about 9.00. That gives a total heighth of 28.50mm

Now I am using a BlueBird Servo on the throttle and its servo horn - sits slightly higher than the stock servo horn. From the base of the radio/batter tray to the bottom of the servo horn is approx 32.50 mm

So I think I have about 4mm to spare. Got my fingers crossed.