All,
This is FYI only and should not be read into any more than that. In the quest for more caster (a must for the one-way setup
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
), and due to my giving up spare parts to other drivers in the past few weeks, I came up with a way to use the FK05 front c-hubs, steering blocks and rear hubs.
FK05 front c-hubs (6 degree's again, woohoo!!!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
)
• Use 1.7mm shims on the hinge pins
behind the c-hubs. This helps to keep the wheels from rubbing the front shocks when mounted on the lower inner holes. The front roll center will be raised due to the hub moving forward/upward, the subsequent ride height change & lower arm angle, and the steeper angle of the upper links. However, with light purple springs, 6d caster c-hubs and 1.5 degrees of front kickup the car steers great without an anti-roll bar, a push in any type of corner, or a hint of oversteer.
• Use the T2 camber links, but replace the inner ends with the quick roll center ends and mount them in the upper inner position for the least amount of angle and longest links to compensate for the larger hubs.
FK05 steering blocks -
required to fit with the FK05 c-hubs
• Use either the 3 hole steering blocks for foam/carpet (the third hole gives faster corner speeds with the T2 as it did with the FK05) or even the older 2 hole blocks for rubber tire setups. If you use c-hubs with less than 6 degrees of caster and a low ride height, you may have some "toe-out" bump steer effect added, but I'm not sure about this.
FK05 rear hubs (I used the 0 degree composite ones, but any will work)
• Use 1.2mm shims on the hinge pins either in front or behind the hubs. Think of it as another wheelbase option.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I used them behind the hubs in order to accomplish my target of a very short 251mm overall wheelbase. Of course my setup is a bit of an oddball one though.
• If using composite hubs, you will have to cut away part of the "webbing" material between the bearing carrier portion and the lower hinge pin portion. This is needed in order for the hub to clear the arm as it travels downward.
• Use the T2 camber links, but replace the inner ends with the quick roll center ends and mount them in the upper inner position for the least amount of angle and longest links to compensate for the larger hubs.