XRAY - Model racing cars

Depends on what height you want to run at. Normally drive shafts level in the rear while at a very slight angle up front is a standard starting point. On my kit with my weight distribution, I ended up a large and small clip up front, with nothing needed for the rear to reach the desired ride height.

That is my problem as far as rebound and I'm playing around with the springs. I've tried to change the oil around to 35... I think I'm going to try 30. I've loaded the towers with so many clips it's ridiculous. I'm hoping that my new springs come in.

Also, I noticed someone else at the track add some lead weights in the back of the X-ray. He placed them directly behind the speed controller. He said if I don't have lead weights that I can use 4 quarters instead. He said it made a huge difference to the way it takes the jumps.

Mini Me, what are you racing you're on? Carpet or dirt?

Was he adding those to balance his car out left to right? This can vary depending on a persons setup. A really low brow method is to fold some cardstock in half, then balance the car along its center forward to aft line on it. The see which way it falls.

What is your cell layout? 5 cell? 6 cell stick or side by side?

Unless your using some extremely heavy electronics, you are pushing your suspension to it maximum length when it rebounds correct? Again, all that is doing is changing your preload. It wont make the suspension harder/faster.

I race on carpet, play on dirt.

He was actually adding those to get more weight in the rear so it wouldn't nose dive after every jump.

I was adding those clips just in the meantime until I get the springs. I think I have have a bit to learn still about suspension. Here's what happens and maybe you can help me.

The original problem is the front constantly nose diving off of jumps. You can just tell that it's not correct. So I attributed it to springs not having enough preload to get the front end off the ground. So I looked at the suspension and I pressed down on the front and noticed that it practially stayed in place. No rebound. So I was thinking if I came short on a double with the front wheels hitting the face of the other jump, the shocks would stay like that. So I started to add the clips to the towers. Then that still didn't get me where I wanted to be. So I posted the question in here. I wanted to know what else I can use for springs. And you answered that question as well. What else do you think I should try? Am I going about this completely wrong?

BTW I have a 6 cell stick. They aren't side by side.. Kind of looks like ===

Here are some options.

Set your ride height with the spacers via dropping the truck from a foot and see how it settles. Normally you want the truck as I said to have universals about even in the rear with the front slightly at a angle. With your situation you might consider increasing that angle in the front. Just not maximum travel.

Without adding weight, and if you feel weight is what you need. You might try then to move your receiver unto the back of the battery bar. So its weight is closer to the rear tires.

You might change the angles of the shocks, so the rear are standing more vertical (softer) while the front are angled more (progressive). You will have to reset your ride height after this as moving these will alter it.

Try removing the rear sway bar. From what I understand in theory, removing it may also make the rear end act a little softer/quicker. The flipside though is the truck is more likely to flip at higher speeds in corners. Maybe also then try removing the fronts (and reconnecting the rears) if this doesnt help.

Try each of these steps one at a time and try them on the track first to see how the vehicle feels. If you do these all at once, you wont know what did what.

Hey LugNutz,
I have experiencing a similar problem: if I push the truck to the bottom it doesn' return to the previous ride height but it sets lower.
Which was the resolving action ?

Tnak you
Filippo