XRAY - Model racing cars

my favorite body is from majestic.... really thick and you will get tired of your paint before the body is ruined... last one went 18 race weekends and not one crack. there is alot of room in them, roof and linkage....

my new kit body.... lasted 1.5 races..... the nose is broke off.

ill never run anything else...

If your breaking noses off relocate you front body mount. I was breaking them every couple of meetings so now i have got myself an ofna/hobao hyper7 front body mount. I drilled a hole in the top plate in the centre just slightly forward of the front torque rod screw hole and located the body mount there. I have not broken as many body's since doing this. I find that the location of the stock body mount is right on the area of the thinest part of the body. This is then made even worse by drilling/reaming a hole through it.
I'll try and post some pics tomorrow of the relocation but i guess you get my drift? Something else i find that helps is if you over size the holes very slightly. Any flex in the chassis stops stress on the lexan body. I'm only suggesting a Millimeter diameter but it's something else that's helped me. Oh and by the way the front body mount is the only thing i would ever buy from Hobao....... rubbish cars!!

I have asked Xray to relocate the body mount in the "what upgrades" section of the site. I guess we can only hope??

Cheers
Darren

plaidfish
your body is probably a little to tight or snug in some area causing it to crack under pressure or chassis flex of some type. I havent had a body crack yet on my buggy. Now LSP is a different story!
Just make sure when you go to put your body on that it almost drops into place and you dont have to twist or turn it by hand.

I also took a Mini Z drill set and drilled a small hole from the front to the back of the buggy on the body post. This way the pin goes with the body instead of across it and fits right between the two small humps.

hope i helped!

I had a few races on my standard body with zero problems. I switched to a CP 2.0 however dont forget JConcepts. Thickers body than the standard ones and I ran them on my Mugen before I switched to Xray. Worked great....

BTW only reason I ran the CP 2.0 is because it was last minute paintjob and had no JConcepts body locally to acquire...

I can't find where to get majestic or Jconcept bodies...anybody have a link???

VB I've had people recommend that method and it works great fro them....I might be a little too lazy for all that.....LOL...seriously I think I'll be doing that on my next body....I used to just smear shoe-goo inside the entire body and smooth it out w/ an ice cube....makes it look real finished inside.....I just haven't had any SG in a while.....I do use the little Donuts I think BRP makes em....they help w/ the rear hole not getting screwed up.....I also take an extra 1/4" off the back of the body so the tower doesn't press in on it......but I'm really just wondering if you guys are using the CP 2.0 boby and having issues w/ it breaking in that spot where it tapers off and goes to the hood portion of it.......THanks for all the suggestions and Links.......is it the Majestic or the JP body that came w/ the kit????

it comes with a proline.

get the majestics, you wont be sorry, i couldnt stand to put a 60 dollar paintjob on a body that last 2 races.

Plaid what you do is you take off your front body post get a longer screw then take a traxxas wheel nut and put it behinde the front shock tower and in front of the post the screw it togther what this does is bring the strees load further back in a meatier part of the body i ve been running my mount like this and have yet to break the front of my body knock on wood

thanks for the tip...that sounds like a good idea....

Chris, from Majestic bodys, also does great paint work for very reasonable prices. Get in touch with him if needed.

www.majesticrc.com