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XRAY - Model racing cars • View topic - Thread to report any problems

XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2005 02:37:15 
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 21:51:41 
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 Post subject: XB8R Kit
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 18:11:36 
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Mario -

FYI:

1. My Racer kit came with the old 13 clutch bell (not the 14T as in most kits)
2. I was missing one of the ball cups for the steering turnbuckle (only 3 in the package)

That was all I noticed - I haven't gone through the entire kit yet.

Thanks,


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 Post subject: Re: XB8R Kit
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 18:26:49 
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 Post subject: Re: XB8R Kit
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 01, 2005 15:39:12 
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Put a dab of green slime (Associated) on the hinge pin where it slides into the eccentric bushing. Works like a charm and eliminates grit wearing the two out.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 00:45:16 
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I'm quite upset, this is another set of new arms and they have been used for today for a long day of practice. The pin turned like this within one day. At this rate its gonna cost me 12 bucks a day in just having to replace arms and the bushing wont even stay for the hole day. I knew the right side of the car felt funny. I defenitly fealt the difference of the moved pin. What a bummer !!! oh and by the way I took all precautions on greasing the Heck out of the pin and insert.





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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 01:37:57 
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I have an idea. the pin is NOT turning in the c hub. it is turning in the bushing. I noticed my C hubs were a very tight fit on the pin. almost a press in fit. if we stop the pin from turning in the bushing it can't spin the bushing around .right? so we need to make the pin looseer in the C hub.

????????????

there has to be a lot of force to turn the bushing like that and that must be affecting the handling of the car.

I just drilled out my C hub so the pin feels free with no resistance. wonder if others have C hub like this or am I the only one?

point here is even if you glued the bushing in the arm something is still siezing up and is messing up the suspension movement.


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 Post subject: Use of Setscrews
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 02:57:30 
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I drilled a small hole in bottom of arm directly under the bushing and then I threaded a setscrew in place to help hold the bushing. I think I will also try filing a flat spot on bushing so that the setscrew will hold it better.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 07:15:13 
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Yes, this is definitely a BIG problem that I hope they resolve quickly.

As far as boring out the hole a bit more, won't this create more slop?

I think I'm gonna try what John said and sand the bottom down a bit on the bushing as well. We'll see.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 07:25:33 
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BIG PROBLEM = HOPEFULLY QUICK SOLUTION....please..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 18:58:39 
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IT IS NOT THE PIN CAUSING THE BUSHING TO ROTATE!!!

i typed this up before, but here is what IS causing it....

there is only 1 thing that can force that bushing to turn like that.
i figured this out when i was setting EPA... lets concentrate on the pic above...
if the wheel gets turned TOO FAR to the right, the knuckle bumps into the c-hub carrier and wants to "twist:.... that twisting force on that carrier puts a side force on that pin, and while using a 2 up bushing, it creates a leverage...and tries to rotate.

if you notice, that they ONLY spin in one direction when they do, both go (top) outside... thats because with the right front wheel, there is no bump stop when turning to the left...

this is caused from a even a small wreck or tumble or catching a tube....

dont try and tell me you can run ALL day and never once make any kind of mistake.

like i said before, use a small grub screw and flat spot the eccentric bushing.


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