XRAY - Model racing cars

I broke open my pit box and look what happened.







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Copyright and ® §måkhèèd 2005

try to fix the pics so we can see.

LoL, someone has too much time on their hands . I think the rear PBS is a bit overboard, just another place for binding.

Did you feel like adding some Ofna into the mix? Looks cool though, if a bit weird.

Oh yeah, tell us how it handles. If it goes well perhaps Xray should look into releasing an option kit. Imagine how MugenMan would gloat if that happened .

wow, you added a whole pound to your car... impressive....


acually i like the pbs, but it fattened up the hyper so bad compaired to the c hub.

wonder if the mugen stuff would fit...

Well I dont actually know how the car handles yet as those pics where posted about 10 mins after the job was finished. BUT I did weigh it to see the difference there and it only gained 2 1/2 ozs. So it's still lighter than and MBX5 or 777 SP1 JUST.

Things to note are all lower arms required grinding out to clear the diff cups and the front uppers needed the hinge hole drilling out to 4.9mm.

But I have got rid of all the niggly faults like the Arms tearing off and turnbuckles snaping. Hopefully this works OK but it Will be going back to C hub on the front soon. I just cant lose all that steering ability.

good job man... try the mugen pbs they are much stronger... also i dont think the rear pbs is necessary....

also u can be able to dremel 1mm of front and rear of the top arm so you can add top castor adjustment

Your guess is probably correct, it was on grass and very high traction, I know it should be fine on our main track as I used to race a PBS before, but this actually feels like it was designed to be like this, I mean every angle just looks RIGHT, luckily should I need the quick steering again then It's only 10 mins to swap the front back, or 20 for the whole conversion back to C hubs.

Dusty track trials today, lets see how it takes this then.

XRAY with the use of composite steering knuckles etc have made a car with a low unsprung weight.
i'm sure that by using steel Pivot balls & increasing the unsprung weight considerably you have upset the natural balance of the car & its suspension
how do you now adjust caster? or have you shortened the upper arms on the upper hingepins to allow for some fore/aft movement?
i'm still unconvinced this is the way to go

Even without triming the faces of the inboard end of the upper arms there is still enough movement to adjust the caster. But I like it the way it is now, so I dont need to trim the arms and introduce another wear point.

"The way to go" is your own decision, this was only ever an experiment to see if it would work. The fact that it does has answered my question and I am just letting you know what I've done. If you wish to stay with things as they come, then it is your car which you were given and it IS your car to do with as you wish.

I respect that Gramaha, and I think its cool that you experiemented with this and posted it for all of us to see. Keep up the good work.