XRAY - Model racing cars

Please could someone help me out.

What is the best way to fill a shock to get rid of all the air. And do you push the shaft in as you bleed the shock etc. And should the shaft move out a bit when you push it in. I have been building shocks for a long time but I just want to make sure I'm doing it perfectly. I like things to be perfect and shocks are very important. So could a team driver please give a nice step by step explanation on how to fill the xray shocks.

Thanks

check the page www.twf8.ws
there you can find under "REviews" of the team a review of the xb8, where all your problems will be solved.
enjoy
Mikeobello

Everyone has their own theory and methode when building shocks. I like the Xray shocks better then any other 1/8th scale shock. I pull the shaft all the way down. I then fill it to the top and push the shaft in and out a few times to get any trapped air moving to the top. I then set the shock down with the shaft all the way down in the center hole of 2 wheels stacked together to allow the air to bleed out while I start the same process with shock #2.

Once all 4 shocks have been bleeded, I put my finger over the top of the shock body to remove any extra oil over the top of the body. I then push the shaft half way in the shock body (I do this to allow some back pressure, but not so much that it will damage the bladder). I then screw the shock cap on quickly, but not too fast, until tight. The excess oil will come out the 2 bleed holes in the cap, leaving the shock perfectly filled. I then pump the shaft several times upside down to check for air, and I watch how far the shaft pushes out by its self after full compression. I then check the other side to make sure they have even pressure. If 1 has more then the other side, I just looses the cap half way and retighten. A little more oil comes out and then the 2 shocks should be the same. I like my shocks shaft to pop out about 25% of the way out. some people build them with no back pressure, but when I do that, they seem to get air in them very soon. Some people build then with full back pressure, but when you do that, it can cut a bladder, and make the oil feel very thick. Also, when the temp goes up, the oil will expand and can cause the o-rings to leak or pop out of the body.

My shocks will go more then a hour with no air bubbles, and the Xray shock oil is still clear when I rebuild then if the shock boots have not torn. If the oil is still clear, I just add a few drops and re-bleed and then they are good for another hour or more.

As Gene posted everyone has their own method, because of this is why David posted some time ago that pre-load clip amounts may change dependant on how you build your shocks.

How I do it (again not ness. better just different and it works for me) is to:

1. Pull the piston to the bottom of the shock body.
2. Fill 7/8 full with selected oil.
3. Slowly move piston up 1/4 of its' stroke (just a little ways).
4. Slowly pull the piston back to the bottom (if you do it too fast you will make a mess!!!).
5. Push the piston up and back again a couple of times until no air is comming through the piston holes (which you can clearly see as XRAY uses clear oil and anodized bodies).
6. Put shock aside vertically standing within one of the spoke holes in the XB8 rims, with piston at the bottom of the body to allow bubbles to dissipate while you repeat the above on the rest of the shocks.
7. After all of the bubbles have dissipated, fill the shocks with oil until the oil becomes concave just below the top of the body.
8. Holding onto the shock with a rag slowly screw the cap on until it just barely seats the bladder onto the body.
9. Push the shock shaft/piston to it's fully compressed state (shaft end touching the body, piston up, etc.)
10. Slowly unthread the cap about a 1/4 turn or until oil starts ooozing out of the bleed holes.
11. Tighten cap when the flow of oil out of the bleed holes slows down.

When built correctly the shaft will not move on it's own more than a couple of millimeters when fully compressed (pushed in, piston at top of body, etc.) or rebounded (pulled out, piston at bottom of body, etc.)

12. Spay shock clean with engine cleaner.
13. Install boots, springs, clips etc.