XRAY - Model racing cars

FAQ section

This section contains the answers to frequently asked questions in the XRay T1 forum. Updates will be made over time so if you have suggestions for questions that you would like us to consider for this section please drop me a personal message.

Complete XRAY T1FK'05 information:

XRAY presents complete information about the T1FK'05. Check the Virtual Tour at the main page (Flash movie), or follow these links to find more:

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* (1 MB size)

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* - HTML with photos

* - PDF with listing of all Spare Parts

* - HTML with photos

* - PDF with listing of all Option Parts

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* - PDF

* - PDF file (ZIP)

* - PDF file

* - PDF file

* - PDF file

* - PDF file - Jilles Groskamp's winning set-up from Snowbirds

* - PDF file - Winning Set-up sheet from 2005 US Carpet Nationals

* - PDF file - from 2005 US Carpet Nationals

* - PDF file - from 2005 LRP Masters

* - Virtual Set-up - winning set-up from 2005 Reedy Race California

How should I clean and relube the one-way?

The best way to clean the one-way is to use small burts of motor spray to clean out the one-way bearing. Make sure that you rotate each of the bearings a little using the inner drive shaft adapters and then repeat the rinsing process to make sure all dirt is flushed out. DON'T completely flush the bearings in the motor spray After cleaning let the one-way dry out for a couple of minutes.

Once dry apply one drop of one-way bearing lube (One-Way Lube 25ML - 309580) in each of the two bearings. DON'T use any other lube and apply no more than one drop each or you run the risk of a slipping one-way Reinstall the drive shaft adapters and rotate the one-way bearings a couple of times to spread the oil to complete the rebuild.

Should I use grease on the doglink coupling?

It is generally best to use some of the grease that comes with the kit on the drive shaft coupling to prevent undue wear. Running the coupling dry may keep dirt away, but it will also make the coupling overheat causing more wear. Moreover the extra heat could cause binding in the coupling resulting in handling problems and lower runtime.

What does changing the rear diff height do?

The rear diff height can be changed by inserting either the 0° or 2° eccentric rear nylon hub (part #30 2074) in the rear bulkheads of the T1FK'05. This gives three different mounting positions: low, middle and high.

The height of the diff influences the amount of weight that is transferred during deceleration (rear to front) and acceleration (front to rear). When the rear diff is in the high position the torque applied to the diff works on the car at a greater height too. As a result more weight will be transferred between front and rear.

The different settings have the following effects:

- High diff = generally more steering

- Low diff = less steering, more stable

- Middle diff = steering and stability in between High and Low (duh )

This setting is best used after you've already achieved a good base setup to fine tune steering and stability.

I have a dry differential, what should I do?

The differential has been built per factory specifications and this way it has been build for several years by well trained factory assembly staff with great results. The diffs are being build and set-up for ultra smooth operation. All factory team drivers have been using the original diffs without modification or re-assembly which is a proof that the diffs are build ready for any high competition conditions. There is a thin and sufficient layer of grease put on the large diff shims, there is sufficient amount of grease applied on the carbide balls and there is sufficient amount of grease applied on the axial bearing as well.

You will not find any extra amount of grease in the differential because XRAY differential has been build for smooth operation and features only the neccessary, appropriate and sufficient amount of the grease. If a large amount of grease would be applied, this will make the operation of the differential not as smooth and efficient like it is now - built per factory specifications.

Moreover XRAY differentials feature the XRAY Dust-Covers which seals the differential perfectly and no or very minimum of dust can get into the differential. Therefore even a small amount of grease is sufficient to make the differential work smoothly and perfectly for a long time.

Please note that XRAY has been using a very special grease which is very thin and transparent so it may look the differential is dry. XRAY strongly suggest NOT to use any other grease than the original XRAY grease.

To summarize the answer - XRAY differentials are NOT dry. If you do not see any overflowing amount of grease in the differential do not worry, your differential has been built properly with thin and sufficient layer of thin grease for smooth operation of the differential. If you believe you need more grease than is the factory standard, then please use the included grease in your kit but remember that a larger amount of grease may make the differential run not that smooth. You can purchase the XRAY Grease under part number

At the end, please remember if you want your differential to last long you need to break-in the differential properly. We will add another FAQ section about the proper differential break-in.

How do I mount the rear Anti-Roll Bar with a high rear diff?



When using the upper differential position on the T1FK'05 rear bulkhead, the rear anti-roll bar wire (if used) may touch the rear differential pulley. The solution is easy. Turn the plastic holders (which secure the anti-roll bar) and mount them as shown in the photo.

Which differential pulley to use for which car?




#305002 Ball Differential with Labyrinth Covers comes with two different pulleys: 32T and 34T.

Use the appropriate pulley for your car:

32T pulley - for T1FK or when using Low Ratio Pulley set on any other cars

34T pulley - for T1, T1EVO2, T1R, T1M, and T1FK'05

How to prevent the shock ball joints from popping off?



To keep your shocks securely fastened on the car and prevent the lower shock ball joint from popping off the pivot ball use this small trick.

The lower composite ball joint has two sides. One side has a shiny finish to the area around the pivot ball hole and the second side has a regular surface.

Install the hex pivot ball into the ball joint so the hex of the ball joint is lined up with the side that has the shiny finish.

How do I modify the rear suspension arm for foam tires?



When using wide (28mm) rear foam tires, cut material from both rear arms as shown to mount the lower shock ball joints to the outer shock mounting holes in the rear arms. Then deepen the shock mounting holes to ensure the mounting screw can be inserted far enough counter boring the holes for hex screws M3x8.

For photo check the Tips 'n Tricks section.

Setting tips for different racing conditions



There are three basic types of racing conditions:

1.) foam on carpet
2.) rubber on carpet
3.) rubber on asphalt



1.) Foam/carpet racing:

To adjust the T1FK'05 for foam racing we suggest the use of these optional parts:

Part#.....Description
---------------------------
301113...3.0mm chassis
301165...Wide Upper Deck
.....or
301175...Adjustable Upper Deck with all three alu braces installed
306510...Alu Top Deck Mounts (pair)
302160...Front Lower Arm Hard
303160...Rear Lower Arm Hard
.....Either of the following Hard C-hub Block left & right sets
302325 & 302326...3°
302329 & 302330...4.5°
302331 & 302332...6°

Because the foam tires often result in very high grip on carpet the main goal to achieve is to make the car as rigid as possible. Use the thick chassis and the wide top deck, and mount the wide top deck using all four alu top deck mounts. All suspension parts should be as hard as possible. The following parts are also needed in order to use the :

Part#.....Description
---------------------------
302041...Lower 0.75mm Eccentric Suspension Holders (for lower rear roll center)
302095...Foam Front Shock Tower
302251...Composite Steering Block Right – 3 Holes
302261...Composite Steering Block Left – 3 Holes
302460...Anti-Roll Bar Front Set with 2mm bar
302471...Anti-Roll Bar Front 1mm
308396...Violet (28lb) Spring Set
308397...Purple (33lb) Spring Set

The new steering blocks include a 3rd hole for less ackerman effect and more corner speed.

2.) Rubber/carpet racing:

Racing with rubber tires on carpet is very different than foam/carpet racing. The difference between low grip tires such as Take-Off 27 and high grip tires such as Take-Off 22 is large and will require very different setups for each track and each type of tire. Generally the T1FK'05 in the basic set-up included in the kit works perfectly for the higher-grip rubber tires on carpet and there are no major changes required.

For low-grip rubber tires on carpet we suggest these small tricks:

• Remove the front alu top deck mount stands.
• Remove the rearmost two screws that fix the front bulkheads to the chassis.
• Remove the two middle screws that hold the rear bulkheads.





Removing the top deck mounts and removing the screws will make the car have more flex thus creating more mechanical grip. As the grip increases you can re-install the screws in the bulkheads.


3.) Rubber/asphalt racing:

Racing with rubber tires on asphalt is usually done under low-grip conditions. We suggest to follow the same tip as used when racing low-grip rubber tires on carpet.

The general rules to follow are:
• When there is low grip you have to soften the car (make it more flexible).
• When there is high grip, you have to stiffen the car (make it less flexible).

There is also a great difference between flexibility of the suspension, flexibility of the chassis/top deck, and overall flexibility. We will come back with more tips & tricks on the flexibility adjustment in the near future. For the basic settings follow the tips above to prepare your car for different racing conditions.

The basic suggestions on suspension parts hardness are:

• For low grip racing conditions use softer suspension parts
• For high grip racing conditions use stiffer suspension parts

How should I prepare the chassis for using GP3700 cells?



At the time the T1FK'05 chassis was designed and produced the GP3700 batteries were not commercially available. XRAY expected the new batteries to be a bit larger and designed the battery slots in advance to accommodate these slightly larger cells. While the VTEC3700 fit the chassis without problems the final GP3700 batteries are larger than expected. To be able to fit the GP3700's it is suggested to slightly modify the battery slots.

Preparation includes beveling the battery slots and smoothing the edges of the chassis.


Beveling the battery slots

Beveling the battery slots prevents sharp graphite edges from cutting into battery cell shrink-wrap which may result in dangerous battery shorting. It also allows the battery cells to sit lower in the chassis for a lower CG (center-of-gravity).

Use a flat file at a 45° angle to bevel the edges of the battery slots. The red area shows the edges how they should be beveled on each of the slots. Note that when using the 3.0mm thick chassis, the slots will have to be beveled even more. You will have to slightly bevel the composite holders on both 2.5mm and 3.0mm as well.



- The red area shows how much material must be beveled


Smoothing the chassis edges

Smoothing the outer edges of the chassis reduces the risks of delamination and makes the chassis safer and easier to handle due to the removal of sharp edges.

Use a file or sandpaper to bevel or round off the edges of the chassis. You can also use CA glue to seal the edges of the chassis.

Using battery holder

When using GP3700 batteries and the optional #306162 graphite battery strap, we recommend adding shims under the battery strap mounting posts to raise the height of the strap. If using the battery strap still tweaks the chassis after shimming, try beveling the battery slots more.

IMPORTANT!

When filing or sanding the graphite chassis, work in a properly ventilated area and use proper protection such as a breathing mask, eyewear, and gloves. Avoid breathing in graphite dust or getting it on your skin.

Also, please remember that graphite material is a conductor and if you have defective battery shrink wrap or wrong wiring, you may short circuit the batteries possibly resulting in battery cells exploding. Please take sufficient safety precautions and always make sure your battery shrink wrap is not damaged and that no wiring is touching the chassis or any other parts of the car.

XRAY assumes and accepts no responsibility for personal injury and/or property damage using or modifying this product.

Axial Bearing Exchange Program



Posted in the

XRAY announces an exchange program for the Axial Ball-Bearing 3x8x3.5 which was installed in the differential of the T1FK'05 kits. If you are an owner of an T1FK'05, please read following:

Issue:

The axial bearing installed in the alu differentials used in all the T1FK'05 kits had changed specification by the bearing manufacturer. The difference between the previous and newer version of the axial bearing is in the cage. The new version of the cage can be easily recognised, it is a silver cage covered only from one side. There have been reports that balls may fall out of the cage, causing the differential to not work properly.

Solution:

It has been claimed that the new version of the cage is manufactured within all standards and limits. Also, the reports say that not everybody experiences this issue, therefore it may happen that many owners can run the T1FK'05 with the current one-side axial bearing cage without any problem. However, XRAY stands for premium quality and high performance requirements, and therefore XRAY has decided to exchange all the new version silver cages for the well-proven double-sided covered cage. With the help and support from distributors, XRAY extends this exchange program to all T1FK'05 owners.

How to Proceed:

Please read carefully how to proceed if you are a T1FK'05 owner.

► Please note that the exchange program will be organised and proceed through the authorized XRAY distribution network and each distributor is allowed to accommodate the conditions and terms which will apply to their local market. You have to follow any specific or different requirements of your distributor.

Please send following information to your national distributor either by e-mail or fax:

• Your full name
• Your full address
• Your day and night phone number
• Your e-mail address
• Your Serial Number printed on the Certificate you have received included in the T1FK'05 kit
• You may be asked for copy of the proof of purchase (receipt), so please have it ready.

When you send an e-mail, please write in the Subject line of the e-mail:
"XRAY T1FK'05 Axial Bearing Exchange Program Application".

If you do not know who your national distributor is, please and in the drop-down menu select the country where you live. If you have problems you may contact the XRAY Support Team at info@teamxray.com with all the above information and you will be advised how to proceed or your e-mail will be forwarded to your national distributor.

► Please note that the distributor may restrict the exchange program only to that kit you have purchased locally. Distributors reserve the right to refuse to send replacement axial bearing to those customers who purchased the kit from a third country (either via e-shop, eBay, friend, etc.)

► The distributor will send the replacement axial bearing cage to you directly, or will send it to your local dealer. You will be informed about the way how you will receive the replacement cage.

► You will receive only the replacement cage. You will NOT receive the two small shims of the axial bearing, as these are good and are not necessary to exchange.
All customers in North America will receive two (2) cages because all the T1FK'05 kits exported to the North America included two ball differentials.

► You do not need to return the one-side silver cage of the axial bearing. Please throw away the one-side silver cage, so you do not use it in future by mistake.

► To exchange the cage of the axial bearing is very easy. Please read and follow the , page 3 and 4 where you can read how to install the axial bearing easily. You can also download the .

Please remember to lubricate the axial bearing appropriately and at the same time you may add more grease to the balls in the ball differential as well if you feel your original diff is not greased sufficiently. Please use only the original included in the kit.

If you have any questions, please contact XRAY Support Team at info@teamxray.com or contact your

XRAY would like to take this opportunity to apologize for this issue and any disruptions that arise from this issue. XRAY guarantees that more emphasis will be addressed on further improving our TQM (Total Quality Management) to guarantee the outstanding premium quality for which XRAY is well known for.

Thank you for your continuing support.

How do I prevent multi-diff locking axle disconnection?

When using the front Multi-Diff as a solid one-way or full time solid axle it may happen that in certain conditions (depending on the set-up of the car) that the outdrives will move outwards and the locking axle will disconnect. This will make the solid one-way/solid axle turn into a standard one-way.



To prevent this insert a small O-ring (for example an o-ring #971030) into each of the outdrives. This will make the drive shafts push against the O-rings and outdrives and the one-way outdrives will not have any space to move.

Where does the team measure downstop settings?

In order to ensure consistency and clarity the team will indicate downstop settings as follows for all published setups (i.e. in the section):

- Front downstop is measured under the steering block screw
- Rear downstop is measured under the rear upright

When posting your own setups it is recommended you use the same measurement locations as well.

Note: older setups such as those posted on myTSN may use different locations such as under the front and/or rear arm. This will usually be indicated in the comments or with the measurement itself.

When mounting the upper deck, why is it not resting on the front and rear bulkheads?

The eccentric servo saver plastic cover that is mounted in the upper deck must be pushed into the deck from the bottom until the bottom edge is flush with the bottom of the upper deck. However, the top of the plastic cover will not be flush with the top of the deck. It will stand out approximately 1mm above the deck.

How do I prevent the spur gear on my T1FK'05 from breaking?

Make sure you do following:
• use XRAY original spur gear and pinion
• use the proper gear adjust the gear mesh (about 0.5mm play between spur and pinion with 48Dp gears)
• tighten the motor mounting screws properly
• tighten the motor holder mounting screws (bottom AND top) properly

If you follow these four suggestions you should not have any problems other than normal wear.

What range of gears can be used on the T1FK05?

The largest 48Dp spurs that can be used on a T1FK05 are:

• 84t for 2.0mm chassis
• 87t for 2.5mm chassis
• 90t for 3.0mm chassis

With the 87t spur the smallest pinion that can be fitted is 14t while the largest is 26t.

It is easy to determine what the smallest and largest pinion will be when running a different spur. The trick is to look at the total number of teeth of the pinion plus the spur. 87 + 14 = 101 which is the lower limit. So with an 84t spur the smallest pinion is 17t (84 + 17 = 101) while the largest is 29t (84 + 29 = 87 + 26 = 113). As long as the sum of teeth of your 48Dp gear and pinion is between 101 and 113 it should fit.

As 64Dp pinions and spurs are not in the XRay range no definitive range can be provided. However it is known that a 116t 64Dp spur has the exact same diameter as a 87t 48Dp spur and is therefore considered the largest 64Dp spur that will fit with the 2.5mm chassis. With the 3mm chassis a 120t should fit (same size as 90t 48Dp spur) and with the 2mm chassis a 112t should fit (same size as 84t 48Dp spur). Although this has not been verified, it is likely that with 64Dp a 19t pinion will fit (smallest) with the 116t spur as should a 35t (largest). Therefore if the sum of your 64Dp spur and pinion is between 135 and 151 it is expected they will fit.

NOTE: numbers provided for 64Dp spur and pinion sizes that will fit are unverified at this time!

When and how should I clean my bearings?

Every three to four weeks, or before a major race, the following procedures are recommended to clean all of the bearings in your T1:

1. Remove the blue seals on both sides of the bearing by inserting the tip of a hobby knife into the inner seam and prying the seal up and out
2. If the seal bends a little and you can see a kink, carefully flatten the kink out by hand
3. Spray the seals with motor cleaner and blow dry with compressed air

NOTE: Place the seals aside in a manner that will allow you to remember which side of the bearing each one originally came from. The bearings have two different sides to them since one side has a plastic membrane covering the balls and the other is open. The seals have two different sides to themselves as well. Make sure you can differentiate the two different sides of the seals in order to put them back on with the proper side facing out.

4. Spray the bearing on both sides with motor cleaner
5. Spin the bearing while it is still wet to dislodge any particles with the cleaner
6. Spray the bearing on both sides again
7. Blow both sides of the bearing dry with compressed air to make sure particles come out
8. Hold the inner part of the bearing with my left thumb/forefinger and spin it to make sure it spins free without any "weird" vibrations or sounds.

NOTE: When dry, the Xray bearings should spin freely for more than 5 seconds and come to a smooth stop. New bearings can spin upwards of 10 seconds. If one stops a little suddenly after spinning freely for a few seconds, I'll repeat the cleaning process to make sure I have removed all particles and then I'll spin test the bearing again.

9. Place one drop of bearing oil into each side of the bearing
10. Replace both seals at the same time by lining them up on each side of the bearing and lightly pressing them in all the way around the bearings circumference with your thumb and forefinger

NOTE: Do not press too hard or use any type of tool, such as a wrench tip, to push the blue seals in as they will push in too far, bend and cause drag.

If you spin test the bearing after you have re-oiled and sealed it, it will not spin freely for an extended period of time. The lightest of oils may allow it to spin for one or two seconds. This is normal and once you have mounted the bearings in the car again, the drive train will spin them freely.

Make sure you use a motor cleaner that does not leave a residue after it dries as this may cause drag and wear in the bearings.

What periodic maintenance should I perform on my shocks?

The most important maintenance tasks for keeping consistent shock performance is refilling and bleeding them correctly. Replacing warped/hard rubber bladders and o-rings, scarred piston rods, or shaved/split/loose composite upper and lower ball joints is essential as well.

NOTES:

• It is recommended that the shocks be refilled and bled every two to four race days. However, the shocks may fill with small amounts of air during a hard crash where too much stress is applied to the sides of the shock body and top pivot mount. Before each race day, make sure you take the spring off of each shock, hold it up to your ear, and quickly compress the shock rod fully into the body while listening for any air making a "whistling" or "squishy" sound as it passes through the piston holes. If you hear any air, refill and bleed your shocks.
• If building or pairing new shocks, always make sure they are the same length first with a shock length measuring tool. If one is longer than the other, adjust the thread of the lower ball joint on the shock rods to match them up to the same desired length.
• If installing new rubber bladders, carefully trim the thin excess rubber from the edges of their lips

Shock refill and bleeding process:

1. Unscrew the top aluminum shock cap nut and remove the entire top assembly, including the composite top pivot mount, rubber bladder and foam insert if using them
2. Drain the oil from the shock body
3. Unscrew the end cap from the bottom of the shock body. It is important to dislodge the purple o-ring from the end cap in order to make sure the rod and piston is not pushed back into the shock body when you push down and screw back on the end cap in the bleeding process below. If the purple o-ring is stuck in the end cap, then cover it with shock oil, screw back on the end cap and remove it again. The purple o-ring should dislodge itself, but you might have to do this two or three times to get it out of the end cap.
4. Clean all of the shock parts thoroughly with electric motor cleaner. Make sure you only use a cleaner that DOES NOT leave a residue.

• For adjustable pistons, open all four piston holes
• With the end cap resting at the bottom of the rod on the composite lower ball joint, fill up the shock body with cleaner and pump the cleaner through the piston holes three or four times by pushing in and pulling out the rod.
• Dry all of the parts thoroughly. Using compressed air will ensure all parts are completely dry, but do not use it on the bladder or let the piston bounce up and down when blowing the air into the shock body.

5. Completely cover both the purple and black o rings with shock oil and screw on the end cap
6. Make sure all four holes are open and the piston/rod is at the bottom of the body
7. Fill the shock body one millimeter below the brim with shock oil
8. Air bubble removal

• Pump the piston once, no more than half way up and all the way back down. Do not let it come close to the surface of the oil.
• Wait 2 seconds
• If using the adjustable pistons, close and reopen all three holes to let out little air bubbles caught in between the two parts of the adjustable piston
• Rotate the piston 1/4 turn. For adjustable pistons, push the piston up a little so its tab does not catch on the bottom of the shock body before rotating it.
• Repeat this process 8 or more times

9. Fill the shock body all the way to the brim with shock oil
10. Prepare the top assembly to be installed as one piece

• Place the top aluminum shock cap nut onto the composite top pivot mount with the tab on the pivot mount seated in the notch on the cap nut.
• Hold the pivot mount and cap nut assembly upside down, being careful to keep the tab seated in the notch
• If using foam inserts, place the insert into the recessed hole on the bottom end of the pivot mount
• Place the bladder on the end of the pivot mount and use a thin, but not sharp, tool to gently press the edges of the bladders lip all the way down in between the sides of the cap nut and the pivot mount. The cap nuts threads and bladder lip should hold the entire assembly together, including the seated tab/notch, once you turn the top pivot mount final assembly back upright.

11. Top assembly installation

• Hold the shock body with one hand and with the other hand, carefully place the top pivot mount final assembly on top of the body (some oil will overflow) and be careful to keep the assembly from lifting back up
• While keeping the assembly as flat as possible with pressure, twist the cap nut counter clockwise until you feel the threads click and see the assembly flatten out. The threads should now be lined up correctly.
• Twist the cap nut clockwise with a light force until it is almost fully screwed onto the shock body. If the cap seems to tighten quickly after one or two full turns, then it is crooked and the threads were not aligned correctly. Twist the cap nut back off a few whole turns until you feel the threads click and try again until the cap nut threads all the way on correctly.
• Once the cap nut has been tightened most of the way down without becoming misaligned, use more force to tighten it down onto the body firmly. It is important not to tighten the top assembly down too much. If you do, the lip of the rubber bladder will be compressed too much and it will not be able to absorb the stress between the top pivot mount and the shock body during a hard crash, which may result in air leaking into the shock. However, if the cap nut is not tightened enough, it may unscrew itself when you try to adjust the ride height using the threaded spring collars. One full turn more of the cap nut than when you first feel the pressure from the rubber lip starting to compress should be correct.

12. Bottom end cap bleeding

• For adjustable pistons, make sure all four piston holes are open
• Turn the shock upside down
• Push the piston in as far as it will go (the pressure may not let it go in that far) and hold it there for two seconds
• Let the piston rebound by itself all the way out. For adjustable pistons, you may need to twist the rod a little for the piston tab to seat itself into one of the notches in the bottom of the shock body and it will rebound out approximately one more millimeter.
• Let the piston sit for a few minutes to let any remaining air rise up to the bottom of the shock body in preparation for it to be bled out through the rod hole on the bottom of the shock
• Measure the distance in millimeters from the threaded aluminum ride height adjustment collar to the beginning of the threads on the end of the shock rod
• Unscrew end cap and let the oil and any remaining air bubbles bleed out until the shock rod recesses into the shock body 2 to 5 millimeters exactly. The more you allow the rod to recess, the less rebound pressure your shocks will have. You will need a good eye and patience for this step. While it is bleeding, lightly tap the side of the ride height collar with something to dislodge any air bubbles and quicken the bleeding process. Make sure you check the rod distance every couple of seconds since air bubbles escaping may make the rod recess quicker than expected. It is normal for the rod not to recess initially even though oil is bleeding out, but it will start to recess quicker as more oil bleeds out. With thicker weight oil, the rod will take more time to start recessing.
• Once the rod has recessed to the desired amount, screw back on the end cap and clean the excess oil off the outside of the shock with motor cleaner

13. Place each front or rear shock pair (with all four holes open when using adjustable pistons) on a shock measuring tool, fully compress them and check the rebound damping speed and how far each extends itself to see if they are the same. If one shock is faster and extends more than the other, perform the following final bleeding process to the faster shock:

• Take the shock off the shock measuring tool and turn it upside down
• Push the piston in as far as it will go and let it rebound and extend out by itself. Do not pull it out any further. The rod will extend itself past the point where it was when you tightened down the end cap in the previous bleeding process.
• Unscrew the end cap
• Tap the ride height collar and bleed out more oil until the rod recesses a quarter of a millimeter below where it was when you tightened down the end cap in the previous bleeding process
• Screw back on the end cap, test the rebound damping speed again for the pair and repeat the final bleeding process if necessary

14. Place a little amount of light oil onto the threads above the aluminum ride height collar and let it soak in. This will keep the collars from binding on the shock body threads when adjusting ride height.

NOTE: It is normal for some oil to bleed out of the bottom of the shock during the first few runs of the car. However, they will equalize at the right pressure without letting any air bubbles in if the O rings are still in good condition.