XRAY - Model racing cars

Ok, ened with the following at the weekend at West London;



I was wondering what suggestions people might have for better steering, but particularly at corner entry.

As our track isn't dead flat, and as the air and track temps weren't too good, I didn't try thicker shock oils at all.
The undulations on the track only really start to show up if running open Mod, other than that we don't really notice them.
Grip is actually low-medium.

I also tried an LTC-R body whcih seemed to remove even more initial.
Using the centre post didn't feel any different, but was 0.1s slower.

The car feels almost too safe to drive but I'm working on changes that won't upset the balance too much.

This video is from a couple of weeks ago, I start in 2nd (blue with yellow and orange stripe);

My car always feels a bit understeery at WLRC, I guess its the nature of the track. Some things I was planning later this year when I visit...

You could go down on the rear shocks (and/or up on the front), that will give you more entry steering. And remove some of the ackerman spacing.

You might then lose some mid-exit steering. I've recently tested the steering brace with the top-deck standoff. I found the brace on its own improved entry/mid steering, and adding the standoff increased mid/exit steering noticeably (to the point where it was a handful on the power at Bedworth, but I dont think that would be an issue at WLRC).

Doesn't look like you are missing steering on the vid more punch out of corners, seems you can corner as fast but lose out on the acceleration?

Have you tried using the two piece alu pin holder in front instead of the one piece, as described on page 12 (top) in the manual. It should give more steering.

We have just started on our outdoor track were grip is low. We run the 1.6mm top deck raised 1 mm (carbon chassis) to gain more flex and grip. Maybe that would affect the steering too in a desirable way.

You write you use Sorex 32 tires, we use Sorex 36 which have significantly more grip than the new outdoor Ride ETS tires that we have also tried.

Have you tried 2.5 springs all round?

We also used 350 oil in the shocks but currently uses 450 which doesn't seem to decrease grip noteworthy, but provides more precise handling, maybe that would affect steering too.

Your rear down stop seems to be on the low side, doesn't it limit the weight transfer to the front and hence grip (and maybe steering)?

I haven't tried 2.5 all round as in other situations it just seems to make the car a bit lazy, similar with the 1.6 top deck and front pivot blocks, they just seemed to make a car a bit numb, but I will try them at our next practice day.

Thicker oil, particularly in the current colder weather, seems to make the car a bit harder to drive as it then can't cope with the undulations properly.

The extra rear droop is to try and increase weight transfer off power and when braking to make the car turn a little harder.
Skiddins

Have you tried a front diff Skiddins?. Something light 500k-1million.
This is our track to give u an idea, lots of 180 deg turns
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82oNWxz ... hebishop74

Have you tried the thinner topdeck?

I don't race a lot of asphalt, but on carpet the thinner topdecks have helped me keep the car feeling pretty well planted while adding a more responsive feel. Of course, grip is generally higher on carpet and that is with an Aluminum chassis.

I am going to run some asphalt this weekend. I'm starting with the kit chassis and I plan to try a variety of topdecks including several from Avid.

I've also had some success with the Avid shock towers. They are 2mm thick with a stiffer weave, which makes them overall a little softer than the kit towers. You could test tower 'flex' with your kit towers by removing the lower 2 screws that mount your tower to the aluminum bulkheads. If you don't feel safe with just the 2 screws, you could replace the bottom 2 screws with setscrews which would act like a pin to hold things in place a little more. That would give an in-between feeling compared to removing the bottom screws completely.

If I find anything that I like in particular this weekend I will share next week. Curious to hear your results if you try any of this.

have you tried the graphites plates?that sharpens the car up ,i ran the progressives didnt like them,but grip was ok when i tested those,maybe more suited to lower grip conditions, better for me in boosted was 2.7 fronts,26 rears 400 oil x4 and stood up on front and hole 2 on the rear,2mm inner front camber link,i go lower when grip comes up,tbh i didnt find a great set up in boosted and ive given up so sticking to blinky,i only managed a 14.06 but i put that down to the motor getting slower as the day went on,i think i killed the orca but the car felt good and im still rusty at wlrc,planning to change that this year

Just thought I'd share something here that I found this past weekend that really seemed to help my car cut hard, especially in 180s.

I moved my outer steering link to the forward hole on the steering block with the inner steering link shimmed 2mm forward off the swing rack. Usually I will set my steering throw to 29* on the inside front wheel using the Hudy gauges. I started with that amount of throw using the forward hole on the block and the car really didn't feel much better. In order to get to 29* I had to remove a lot of steering throw, so during my first practice run I added some of the dual rate back and the car came to life and was consistently 2 tenths quicker than it was before. I checked after that practice run and my inside front wheel was now reaching 33* of throw.

I made this change between the final round of qualifying and the main. I qualified 2nd for the main, and with the added steering that I had I was able to cut down inside of TQ on lap 1 and get by to take the W. I don't feel like I have this setup perfected yet, but here is what I ended up with: xform/index.php?act=view&ID=336&setup=t4_2015

Hy guys....

I have the same prob. Im search more Steering but i dont found this i habe try so mutch things. On my old car Team Magic i have drive with 70% Dual Rate and there have a lot of steering more than my T4 15' with 100% Dualrate.
I run with 2mm Ackermann, 3mm Bumpsteer, two pice rollcenter brace, front 2.7 and rear 2.6 Springs.
I would like more init steering.

for Dintikon?
Off or on brakes?

Yes for Dintikon
Off Brakes.

I think

Front: softer spring (2.5) and/or anti roll bar (1.3). Narrow track widht (FF -0.5 FR -0.5 or -1) more offset (.75), less ackermann, less bumpstering, pro squat, more toe out, more weight

Rear: softer diff oil (2000), "more droop", Spring (2.5). Rollcenter up, less weight



No flex chassi, tougher shock oil (450) front and rear.

so I would do it

Skiddins, have you tried going up in only front shock oil? That's my magic bullet for more entry steering and just as you get on the throttle without changing overall balance. Especially with your front shocks down a hole vs the rear, which will soften damping a little.

I've switched to a Speed6 on the 2015 car at Bedworth as I was needing improved consistency and stability through the higher-speed parts of the track. I think the narrower chassis (vs 2014 car) is the cause, since everything else is pretty much the same as the old car.

So I've then been making setup changes to get the steering back through the infield. Overall it's now as fast as it was with the LTCR on a good day, but more consistent and easier to drive.

One of the biggest improvements Sunday was narrow (-0.75mm) front hexes. This improved steering almost everywhere without costing too much stability. I've just ordered another pair so I can try them at the rear as well.

Has anyone tried the motor mount flex screw in vs out? Does it make any difference?

regarding the motor mount screw and the motor mount post if there is a x on the setup does it mean that the post and the screw are used or not used