BS! You have been trying to run us in circles on the other forum when there is obviously a problem! I understand fully the things that influence toe angle, the main one is the position of the front and rear ends of the inner hinge pins, and both the rear pins are offset to the right, decreasing the angle on the left, and increasing the angle on the right(by 1 full degree in relation to the other side, and when measured based on the centerline of the chassis with precision equipment, with zero inserts, the left has 2.5 deg while the right has 3.5 deg!) On top of that, it is blatantly obvious just by eye! Like it was already discussed, your Hudy setup station measures the toe of one wheel in relation to the other, not in relation to the centerline of the car! Like the great example somebody already posted, you could mount the rear end sideways, or at a 45 deg angle, and still come up with those same measurements on the Hudy setup station, it does not mean that both sides are even. I would not care about a .1-.2 deg tolerance if both sides were even, BUT THEY ARE NOT!
With all of this mumbo jumbo trying to justify why the brace is offset, then why is everything else on the car almost perfectly symmetrical, INCLUDING THE OTHER 3 TOE BLOCKS! NOWHERE ELSE on the car is a part "intentionally" built asymmetrical to "compensate" for "screw tightening" or "molds cooling" etc.
Even if it was adjusted for tightening screws etc., you yourself just said it is enough to affect it .1-.2 deg, this is a FULL DEGREE difference, caused ENTIRELY by you building one toe block "intentionally" offset from the other!
In case you haven't noticed, many of us here are pretty intelligent and mechanically inclined, and have enough confidence in our real world experience that your smoke and mirror technique just makes you look bad. Put your Hudy setup station aside, it is useless in this instance, and just look at the car with a fresh set of eyes, the issue is obvious! By now, like virtually EVERY OTHER PERSON to who's attention I have brought this to, you have to have seen the problem, so clearly you are just blowing smoke at us. I can only imagine how this affects your 2wd car on dirt........
As far as you now suggesting we only use the middle and outer insert positions, here's the thing........Meanwhile, they are clearly shown as options in the manual, and the basic clay setup that is directly linked as a download from your page on the car SUGGESTS to use them, but now your saying otherwise? Aren't you marketing the car based on adjustability? And you're also saying "to keep the same suspension holder and not make new ones", but YOU DID MAKE A NEW ONE!(+2mm) This suspension holder IS updated, along with the outdrives, so that is certainly no justification either.
I suggest anybody reading this go over to RCtech and see the numerous people's comments, measurements, etc., that tell quite a different story than what Xray is trying to spoon feed us. In an effort to save face, you guys are really losing credibility with us. We have been looking at it in depth from every angle and clearly it is wrong.
To anybody that's not drinking the Xray Kool-Aid that wants a symmetrical car, the closest you're going to get right now is by using zero offsets on the right, and 1 deg out on the left, for about 3.6 deg each. Maybe some of you have also noticed that every time you set your steering trim on the bench by eye, then on the track you have to go several clicks left to get it to go straight, now you know why.
Last edited by kevinpratt823 on Tue Jan 27, 2015 20:23:20, edited 1 time in total.
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