XRAY - Model racing cars

So I noticed mine a week and a half ago, now several others have confirmed to have found the same thing. The rear hinge pin braces are machined wrong, the right side insert is out about .5mm farther out than the left. It is even noticeable by eye, especially when you look at the gap between the gearbox and inner edge of the arm. Alo, if you put a straight edge across the back of the brace, it is obvious that the right side has considerably more toe.

This is my first Xray, and I have to say, though some things are of great quality, between this, the fact that my dogbones bottom into the drive cups and stop me at half travel if I try to use the inner insert positions, and the terrible leaky/loose shock seals.....I'm a bit dissapointed. Perhaps they rushed this one out the door a bit too quickly.

Hi Kevin,

Please understand that many factors influence the overall toe setting including the uprights/steering block holes, wheel hex hub tolerances and their natural play or even the lower diff bulkhead screws tolerances and the way these screws are mounted to the bulkhead from bottom of the chassis. All these factors were taken into consideration and the suspension holders designed appropriately so at the end when the car is fully assembled and put on a set-up system such as HUDY Set-up System that the left and right toe are within the tolerance same.

As mentioned the tolerances and purpose play of the parts result in a variation of measuring results. It is enough when a customer will dismount the diff bulkhead, changes the screws and tighten them in a different order to the chassis and the final toe due the sum of tolerances and tension forces in the composite parts may create a 0.1-0.2° difference from previous meassuring.

Finally these tolerances have been very same from the very first XB4 which has been used successfuly by the team around the world.

Once again thank you for your input on this matter. As usually all the ideas and feedback from customers are recorded and evaluated for the further development of the cars. If we will have any improvement ideas in this area we will incorporate them for future. As such any feedback and comments are greatly appreciated and valuated.


Regarding the diff outdrives, these were updated to improve the strength and reliability. Extra material was added to the outdrives to certain areas which shortened the opening in the outdrives. To keep the same suspension holders and not make new ones with different suspension positions it is suggested to use middle and outer positions for the suspension pins.

BS! You have been trying to run us in circles on the other forum when there is obviously a problem!
I understand fully the things that influence toe angle, the main one is the position of the front and rear ends of the inner hinge pins, and both the rear pins are offset to the right, decreasing the angle on the left, and increasing the angle on the right(by 1 full degree in relation to the other side, and when measured based on the centerline of the chassis with precision equipment, with zero inserts, the left has 2.5 deg while the right has 3.5 deg!) On top of that, it is blatantly obvious just by eye!
Like it was already discussed, your Hudy setup station measures the toe of one wheel in relation to the other, not in relation to the centerline of the car! Like the great example somebody already posted, you could mount the rear end sideways, or at a 45 deg angle, and still come up with those same measurements on the Hudy setup station, it does not mean that both sides are even. I would not care about a .1-.2 deg tolerance if both sides were even, BUT THEY ARE NOT!

With all of this mumbo jumbo trying to justify why the brace is offset, then why is everything else on the car almost perfectly symmetrical, INCLUDING THE OTHER 3 TOE BLOCKS! NOWHERE ELSE on the car is a part "intentionally" built asymmetrical to "compensate" for "screw tightening" or "molds cooling" etc.

Even if it was adjusted for tightening screws etc., you yourself just said it is enough to affect it .1-.2 deg, this is a FULL DEGREE difference, caused ENTIRELY by you building one toe block "intentionally" offset from the other!

In case you haven't noticed, many of us here are pretty intelligent and mechanically inclined, and have enough confidence in our real world experience that your smoke and mirror technique just makes you look bad. Put your Hudy setup station aside, it is useless in this instance, and just look at the car with a fresh set of eyes, the issue is obvious! By now, like virtually EVERY OTHER PERSON to who's attention I have brought this to, you have to have seen the problem, so clearly you are just blowing smoke at us. I can only imagine how this affects your 2wd car on dirt........

As far as you now suggesting we only use the middle and outer insert positions, here's the thing........Meanwhile, they are clearly shown as options in the manual, and the basic clay setup that is directly linked as a download from your page on the car SUGGESTS to use them, but now your saying otherwise? Aren't you marketing the car based on adjustability? And you're also saying "to keep the same suspension holder and not make new ones", but YOU DID MAKE A NEW ONE!(+2mm) This suspension holder IS updated, along with the outdrives, so that is certainly no justification either.

I suggest anybody reading this go over to RCtech and see the numerous people's comments, measurements, etc., that tell quite a different story than what Xray is trying to spoon feed us. In an effort to save face, you guys are really losing credibility with us. We have been looking at it in depth from every angle and clearly it is wrong.

To anybody that's not drinking the Xray Kool-Aid that wants a symmetrical car, the closest you're going to get right now is by using zero offsets on the right, and 1 deg out on the left, for about 3.6 deg each. Maybe some of you have also noticed that every time you set your steering trim on the bench by eye, then on the track you have to go several clicks left to get it to go straight, now you know why.

Xray needs to fix this! No more excuses. It's off. You can see it with your eyes. I have confirmed the measurements with a CMM. My results are posted on rctech. Please fix this now before you lose any more customers. Your reputation is at stake.

It is even obvious by eye that the right side has more toe than the left. With the trim set straight, the car pulls to the right under acceleration.

Why we cant see it with set up?

My XB4 2015 is having same problem. And my spare part of RR +2mm brace is also having a same problem.

i have bough a xb4 2wd
what is the wrong piece in specific? thanks

Following the recent customer reports of incorrect rear toe-in, we have conducted additional inspections and measurements of the previously run batches of the rear aluminum suspension holder. We found that a certain batch used an incorrect CNC program and were not produced correctly. After assembly on the car, the left and right rear toe-in are not identical. We apologize for any troubles.

A replacement suspension holder will be provided FREE of charge. Detailed information can be found here at http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/news/n ... goria=4271.

GREAT XRAY. /clap
Very serious. I apreciate a lot this.

PS
add at the list the
# 363313
because i have the RR +2 gold and it isn't simmetric
i can post photos of that

Thanks for finally responding in a more favorable manner, my faith is restored lol.
I have done a lot of searching and discussing with others about this, and have not come across a single one that actually WAS machined right, and from what we could see in pics that includes all the braces even your team drivers were running, so I suspect it is more than just "a batch". It also appeared that most, if not all, of the '14 cars seemed to suffer from the same issue. Will they be eligible for replacement if they show that their brace is off? And what about all the people who bought the RR+2mm as an upgrade to their '14 and earlier cars, as well as the brass one as was just asked?

well done Xray!!!