XRAY - Model racing cars

****If anybody with a 2015 kit can check the following stuff out on their car, I'd appreciate some feedback about what you find, for your sake and mine*****

The following pics are with the car set up to the basic clay setup that is linked directly from the "downloads" part of the 2015 kit Xray page, with both the and rear hinge pin brace 1 deg. inserts in the lower inner positions as shown. I had put one o-ring on each shaft, but they were doing nothing anyway apparently. You can see that I removed both rear springs and spring cups to illustrate this point. With both dogbones completely vertical in the outdrives, the chassis does not even come close to bottoming out because the dogbone pins are bottoming out into the outdrive notches. It is obvious from the pics that it is not just a little bit, it's rather drastic. The right side outdrive actually protrudes a bit farther for some reason, so it stops even shorter. I am built in shorty configuration, so my diff is in the opposite way as a saddle configuration, so I would speculate that saddle may have the issue more on the left side. Regardless of how many o-rings you put on, a chassis that doesn't reach the ground is not good, but fwiw I had about 9mm of shock shaft left from the rod end to the shock body in this pic.
I then tried all the 0 deg/central hole inserts that the manual calls for as initial position, I will post those pics in a minute separately so as not to get them confused, but it just barely allows the chassis to bottom out on the left, while the right is still a hair off the surface. Please guys look into this on your cars, we should certainly be able to get more up travel than this, and with a car that has so much adjust-ability we should certainly be able to use those adjustments.

For a quick test, with your car off the ground, hold a rear wheel and compress the rear suspension fully, now rotate the wheel and see if you see/feel it pushing back down as the dogdone pins go vertical. If your hingepin inserts are in the outer positions you may not notice it as much, but if they're in the center or inner I'm pretty sure you will. I am guessing the issue stems from them making the dogbones long enough to use the widest track adjustments, but I think it backfired and they went too long to use the narrower track adjustments.

Here are the same pics with both sets of rear hinge pin 0 deg. inserts, which is the center hole in each. Notice how the right side of the chassis is still off the ground a bit.

I really don't think I'm just crazy, there seems to be an issue here.

Typically the drives would have more travel when vertical because usually it's the rim of the cup that limits it, but in this case the pin angles into the notch and bottoms out into the outdrive well before the chassis would even reach the ground.

For example, here are the two pics, with the SAME setup with insets on inner positions, and no springs on the car. Look at the pics closely and notice that the pic with the chassis off the ground is with the outdrives vertical, the picture where it almost hits the ground is the SAME SETUP, with the outdrives horizontal, chassis making it all the way down to the ground, still not hitting the drive cups though. All I did was take the first pic, rotate the wheels 90 deg., then take the other pic. If I could get the travel shown in the second pic for a full revolution of the wheels I would not be having this conversation.

the 2014 kit does the same thing .the was a jump that no matter what i did when i landed the rear would bounce up and over the front if you didnt land perfect. it was the dog bones bottoming in the cups. reset the car wider or limit the shock up travel and that went away and i could overshoot the landing and keep trucking with no rear bounce.

i brought up this binding over a year ago but nobody really seemed interested. wonder if we can find the thread?

Have you checked this with out the shocks on the car?
Which holes have you got the pins through the wishbone and hub?

Have you measured the drive shafts to see if they are correct and also could you take a picture of the CVD and hub please?

It is very strange that it does it on that rotation of the out drives?

I had something similar when I had a problem with another brands CVD.

I have the exakt same problem!
viewtopic.php?f=101&t=18994

I ended up using a dremel to make the notches a little deeper in the cup, now the pins don't bottom.