XRAY - Model racing cars

I haven't done a direct comparison but how can an anti roll bar with a lot of mechanical play be better than the old blade type?
If I disconnect the shocks and put a 8mm drill bit under the chassis, I can lift the left wheel at least 6-7mm before the right side wheel start to move. If I do so with the blade type the right wheel start to move when the left wheel is lifted only 2mm.

Should be lifting about 2-3mm, shouldnt have that much play. The Blade is more direct you're right but not by that much!

You just have to setup the play in order that the antirollbars have the same play on the both sides (or better no play).

Hello,

My friends and me had exactly the same problem here in France.

I will be enough honest with you to let you know that we put the old anti roll bar that are pretty good.

Like you, i had a headache set up the new anti roll bar!

regards from france,

David

Make sure the anti roll bar holders that go into the bearings are mounted exactely the same. This means, the setscrews both have to be in exactely the same position and angle to the anti roll bar. Otherwise it sits not correct in the bulkheads already. You can compare a different angle pretty much to when you use different positions left and right of the belt tensioner excenters.

The ultra stable clutch spring needs MUCH less preload than other ones. When setting it up like the 'standard' 1mm thread left on the flywheel nut, the clutch will never engage, even not on the box under full throttle. I also run it at .3mm and set it up in quater turns which makes a huge difference on the US spring already.