XRAY - Model racing cars

Well judging by the cars performance so far at the euro's it must be a complete change as the pivot pin design has very little advantage.......... Glad the light was seen!

The locaters on the shock towers same as brokomo........ awesome steal

Locaters on the pivot blocks would be great like yok especially on split mounts as the accuracy and strength is amazing.

Other things to make xray not better but the best,
Roll bars- a 1 piece spacer to hold central the two little silver guides u can by are rubbish the twist bind.... Proper bit of kit needed
Or a design like the associated
The adjusters between wishbone and roll at could be better---screw adjustable like most others
Motor mount- use of 3 screws to hold motor and more metal against motor to stop motor moving!

As skiddins 3rd front post on shock tower (I appreciate u can use the hole on top deck but professional made to be there is always better

Thinner chassis???

Jampot

Shock towers look like they're normal but the bottom two screws are removed.

Motor mount is fine, only had a motor move once, after a huge impact.

In the pic I see little countersinking for a screw, but a bit of orange like a lug or locater. I suppose for actual pics we will have to wait for official press.

The motor mount is terrible it is not a heavy knock but a knock of most sorts, I attempted tightening the motor screws more but with my soft alloy end bell it just strips!

and always use a thin washer on the motor screws or the screwhead will eat into the mount and reduce its ability to hold the motor tight

is there a reason why you dont use crush tubes in the hubs,the reason i ask is i have quite an amount of slop in the bearings and when i tried to shim out the slop it binds the bearings,i have gone through 2 sets of bearings in 2 months i tried xray bearings and now schumachers and still the same problem,my camber change with the slop is from 1.5 to 0 degrees,surely this is unacceptable,very hard to get the right camber with that much slop,eagerly awaiting your responce,Richard

The purpose for this thread is...
Xray asking us as customers what we wish to see on the car they make and sell to us,

So the motor mount.... With the cheap screws provided it strips the motor thread if done up too tight.... If too loose in an impact the motor can move forward.
I now use SERPENT button head screws which has a better thread and more load area to hold secure I don't have the issue anymore but why should I buy other manufactures parts to perfect my car.
Now as I'd say its been proven the brokomo mount works (aided with race..rry chassis n top deck on the tam.ya it made an ok car amazing but no xray ) with a floating top deck design if xray were to redesign the mount a feature on the bd7 which is nice was 3 screw locations and the extra surface of the mount acting as friction against the motor to stop it moving.

Washers and sinking into the mount........ Really?!?! If I wanted to have a screw eat into my mount I'd use a countersunk one... It's not its design its not its purpose.

I clearly have not a clue what I'm talking about as I mentioned a different design in suspension, I was told it had little performance gain.............

Then miraculously a t4 which looks to have little other modifications except a standard design of suspension mounting and a driver that was hoovering towards the middle, back of the A main (Alex ur still a legend for being there no1 driver and a quality driver which I'd love only part of ur skill to help me improve) now put the car on the podium and actually put the bd driver that has seemed invincible for a while now under pressure.

Your crush tubes idea is good and definatly a finishing touch, the play I'd never notice being honest, but I have noticed the wobble and in n out play of the shaft/wheel whilst on my hudy board.

As anyone else damaged a top deck with all 4 screws out of layshaft mount and having 1mm washers under front n rear for a proper floating deck (no interference from mount)
I did previously post but no response, mine damaged at the thin bit where the motor nearly touches! If a redesigned top deck comes a little thicker in that area please.

Well done Alex H at euro's maybe 2014 will be yours and xrays year to be the best.

re motor mount,do you never change worn screws? do you never buy a different brand because its cheaper
there is nothing wrong with the mount,its all just YOU!!

RE suspension mounts,ok yes you can have a medal

and ill agree about the cracking top deck i have broken three,the answer is to stop crashing,it is the only weak point on the car

I agree with a post in the forum, we could do with pivot block inserts that allow 0.25mm and 0.75mm adjustment as well as the current 0.5mm and 1.0mm.
Mainly to allow the fine adjustment of rear toe etc.

Skiddins

The new ECS shafts with 2.0mm pins are rubbish. I've broken 2 of them in the last month while driving, not during a crash :/ And they always seems to break in the same spot. I don't crash a lot and I keep regrease them often.

Rest of the car is great

not broken any yet !!!

The only problem founded on this car (really annoying) until now are the wheel exagon, the screw strip very easily, and even with tight screw the exagon doesn't remain in position.
I' ve changed using the ex with ring of rubber and it work well now! The solution it's similar like measure and weight but give more durability!

I would like to see ECS drive shafts fitted as standard to the T4, a bumper brace that acually works, easy to do with either a piece of cabon over the top of the plastic brace or an anti roll bar block fixed to the underside of the front bulkhead or better still a new moulded plastic brace that touches the bulkhead in the event of a frontal impact.